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Yup - it's only a 23' boat - the three points are totally fine.

Can you verify for us if it used to pee on the hose? And are you still using the same setup/length of hose/etc? It sounds like that's what you're saying, but it's not perfectly clear. Can you be more specific about what you've done? Before we start offering suggestions, it would be helpful...

Oh, OK. Thanks. From what you saw, if someone had their own router (or possibly a good file?), do you think they could they do it?

Very nice! Good idea to post the dimensions, too! Just out of curiosity... could you have just turned it over?

Boy, you probably hold the record for the longest "joined time" for this site and the most posts without actually owning a Grady! You may have previously read that with most Grady's, the fwd bilge is slightly lower than the aft bilge. So if there's water in the aft bilge, then after running...

Nice! Eventually I'll get everyone converted over to the proper term! :) Following up on what's been said about trimming up when in reverse... YES - absolutely for engines on a bracket. If the engines are right on the transom (like the OP's boat), it's not really an issue. I suppose in some...

I didn't watch that video - but as long as the top/side of the hatch is thick enough, there's really no reason to go all the way to the side. It's easier to just lay the ply in, about an inch or two shy of the edges and then lay the 1708 on top. The 1708 will end up making the top of the hatch...

I guess it sort of depends on how your hatch is made. I'm assuming that it's similar to mine in that the core sits "proud" and you can visually see exactly where the core is. But is your hatch underside perfectly flat? A few pics may help determine if we're talking about two different build...

Yup there's no strength lost by not taking the ply to the edge. I don't think I used any filler when I rebuilt my hatches. What were you planning on using it for?

Maybe something as simple as foamboard insulation from Home Depot? You can get it in 1/2" sheets - but it's a piece of cake to thin down/shape and/or glue more pieces together to make it thicker in some areas. I've never had a need to but I'm sure you could paint it if you wanted to.

Don't make him squeeze... remove the batteries (and anything else in the area) for him! :) Long sleeves - ideally thick material - there could be loose strands of needle-like glass sticking out.

No, you were fine - no worries! In case I wasn't clear, though... Epoxy CAN work with both mat and cloth - it just has to be labelled as epoxy-friendly as the binder for the fibers is different. But, again, there's absolutely nothing wrong with vinyl (or even poly from this standpoint)...

1/2" is plenty fine. A layer of lightweight mat between wood and hatch will take up and small imperfections. One layer of 1708 over the top is all that's needed. You shouldn't be doing anythign that would affect how the hatch sits down on the deck. The core has nothing to do with that. If...

Are you sure you don't want to use epoxy resin? I've used poly and epoxy and epoxy is definitely easier to work with... although poly is cheaper. You wouldn't need a respirator with epoxy, either. I've never worked with vinyl ester - although I do think it's quite smelly. I don't know about...

Pics of the access from the other side of the door would help. Is there a floor hatch? If there is no access, then you're back to cutting a hole. There's no magical answer :)

I'd be much less worried about the bolts holding the bracket on. That is actually sealed quite well with lot's of surface area for sealant.

No real recommedation - see what you see and buy what you like :) You could attach it to the ring if you wanted, but that defeats the purpose of my points above. But that, of course, doesn't mean you could/couldn't do it. You can only hold one end to throw it. Don't overthink it - buy it and...

Yes, please don't! :) I'm not sure about Canada, but in the US it's illegal to discharge overboard unless you're "X" miles offshore.

Short and to the point... the reality is that it could be anwhere between Great Condition... SO-SO, but savable... to "It's going to sink!". The only way to know is to inspect it (or pay someone knowledgeable). Given it's a solid transom, though, that does give "more" hope that everything is...

FYI, you can get better adhesion with sealants to HDPE by flame treating it. I've had decent success with that over the years - although I wouldn't consider it a permanent solution. However, in this case (and as Skunk pointed out), we're not looking for a big pressure-resisting seal. Meaning...