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I don't see why you couldn't put in a larger hatch. Just make sure you size it so it fits in the same flat area as the existing deckplate...and try to get one as close to watertight as possible. I would look at the Armstrong 10x20 or one of their round ones if that won't fit...

When sealing the rubrail, I would only caulk the top edge and the mounting screws. You don't want to seal up the insert or bottom. That could prevent water from draining out of it.

NJ-JOHN, If you're intersted I have decided to sell my platform bracket and go w/ a non-platform bracket instead. It's a 30" setback Stainless Marine. Platform width is 76" if I remember correctly. There is a small amount of corrosion on the face that sits up against the transom, but...

yellowlab, We ditched the cover because it was ugly. To be honest, I'm really not sure why it's there to begin with. It definitely didn't shield any sort of weather from the panel. The switches and gauges used were waterproof, but not the fuse holders. This boat had the canvas up most of...

Build your new transom up to 25". It won't have any negative impact on resale. You could rebuild to full height and add a set-back bracket. I THINK the boat will handle the weight giving that it was at one time offered with an OMC Sea Drive, but with a 25" shaft, that might put the motor...

No sagging that I noticed. I think that piece is too far towards the side to hold the center up. I even tried pushing up on the roof while removing that piece of trim and it didn't seem to make a difference. I'm still working on the thru-hull access problem. I tried to put the new ones in...

No, this is on a friend's Overnighter.

You have tons of choices... www.stainlessmarine.com www.armstrongnautical.com www.hermco.net (fiberglass and about the best you'll find) www.dadmarine.com www.dusky.com Hermco, D&D and Dusky brackets bought direct from the manufacturer. The others are purchased through vendors. There's also...

Let me guess, it was the one that cover this area that was hard to pull out... I had the same trouble pulling it out of a 204 I'm working on so I could try to reach that dang thru-hull burried back there. I ended up removing all the teak trim pieces from along the side of the v-berth and...

I used PVC to sleeve the garboard drain hole in my old Sailfish as well. Worked great! I know there area also places that sell fiberglass socks that you can slip over a piece of waxed tube/pipe and use to laminate your own sleeves. I've seen others lay wet-out glass on the inside of the hole...

Oh, I see. Didn't catch that before. I know my old 204 wasn't like that. When I removed the trim piece, all I saw was a bare plywood...with caulking speared all over it. I still think they should just glass that stupid joint.

Here's what I would do... 1. De-rig and remove the engine. 2. Remove the bracket from the boat. 3. Have the bracket sand or soda blasted. I'm not sure what effect sandblasting may have on the aluminum above the water line (I'm thinking of cosmetic impact - will it leave dimples or pits) so...

Probably bilge pump (manual/auto), nav/anchor lights and fuel gauge. You should have a button for the horn as well. Here's a some pics of a replacement panel I made for an '84 Tournament 19 several years ago. Original panel Cutout for panel New panel ready for gauges and switches Done...

That aluminum trim is just there to hide the joint. It is not a structural component.

Air pockets can be avoided by drilling relief holes in the core before you put it down. You can see them in the second picture I posted. I bed that core in epoxy thickened w/ wood flour and as soon as I weighted things down, the goop squished up through the holes. Wipe clean prior to curing...

Or you could try drilling out the center of broken part of the machine screw and then collapsing the threads inward to remove the piece. Even if you mess up the threads in the insert all is not lost. The screws that GW put in aren't long enough to engage off of the threads. When I had one...

I meant put a helicoil directly into the fiberglass.

You could try a helicoil as well.

Here's the deck hatches from my old Sailfish after being recored. Regular 1/2" ply was used for the core. I cut the edges on a 45 degree angle and sized the pieces so they stopped about 1-1/2" short of the edges of the hatch. Glass used was 1708 I believe. I first layed strips one layer in...

The "car" epoxy you're talking about is most likely polyester resin and should work fine in this situation. However, I would probably look for something a bit more tailored towards the marine environment. The sample kit from Raka should give you enough to do a fair number of holes depending on...