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I wouldn't. If you get any movement of the tank the pads will wear against the epoxy coating you're going to be putting on that nice new tank (right? :) ). If you bond them to the tank, there will be no movement between the pads and the tank, and no way for moisture to get in between them.

Yep. Strips on the tank. No sealant/adhesive between the strips and the subfloor. As for positioning, I think I just put them back where they were originally. That was a few years ago, so I don't remember exactly. Sorry.

Didn't have much "fun" yesterday, but I made some progress. Spent 12-1/2 hours in the car and solved my bracket (or lack thereof) problem... :goodjob Was originally looking for a non-platform bracket, but since the wife and kids expressed their desire for a platform for swimming purposes...

When I had the tanks out of my old Sailfish, I used 4200 to attach the strips to the bottom of the tank. Ran a bead, set the strips in place and then rolled over them w/ a piece of aluminum tube to squeeze out all the air.

Geez, that was fast. That guy's post wasn't there when I posted it here.

My '93 had screws in between the pleats of the bolsters.

Ask and ye' shall receive... http://www.thehulltruth.com/boats-sale- ... -hull.html

I had the same problem with the hatches on my old Sailfish. In my opinion, it's the way they are built that causes them to crack. Now, I could be wrong here, but I believe I remember reading somewhere that the hatches are built using some sort of injection molding process. I don't remember...

Keeping them both... Had the tarp off the Formula this weekend because the wind tore it all up. D@mn sexy hull that is... :)

Nope. Grady purposefully designed all of the ice/fishboxes to drain directly overboard w/out the need for any sort of pumps.

Fighting the urge to dump the project. Feeling overwhelmed with everything I need to do on the Mako, all the remodeling my wife wants done in the house, all the work needed in the yard, etc... :(

Tanks usually cost around $10/gal so figure $400 for that. Since you're in NJ, check out www.speedytanks.com. I don't think they are necessarily the cheapest out there, but you'll save on shipping because they are close. You'll also want to replace all the fill, vent and supply lines at the...

If you didn't run the engine, you didn't fill the filter w/ oil and it will show higher than normal on the dipstick.

People do that as a bandaid to get more time out a flexing/rotten transom or to raise the height (incorreclty IMO) to allow for installation of a longer shaft engine. From the pics on CL, it appears you still have a 20" motor on that boat, so that rules out no. 2... From the ad description, it...

The supports you are referring to are called stringers and you are correct that there are two that run parallel to the center line of the boat on either side of the gas tank. There should also be a second on each side in between the main stringer and the side of the hull. It sounds to me like...

108 psi is a 10% difference from the 120 avg. you are seeing. That's right on the border of acceptable variation. If the motors are still running, ask the current owner to do a shock decarb and then recheck the compression. Also, were those compression numbers hot or cold?

Those primers are nothing more than electric primer bulbs. I think that's where the $5 comment came from. Most people just replace them w/ the bulbs when they go bad.

Not trying to upset you, but you posted on a Sunday afternoon when people are finishing up their weekends and were crying for a response before noon on a Monday. Have a little patience.

I borrowed that pic from Ebay. My 3.0s weren't nearly that clean.

Yes. I'll grab some shots by this weekend at the latest, but your boat will be different due to the single v8. In a nutshell, the plate that mounts to the inside of the transom serves as the rear mounts. It has two arms that extent out to meet the mounts on the flywheel cover (that's probably...