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Can't speak in terms of actual dollar figures, but I can tell you it will depend on how the job is done and what materials are used. Going from the outside, using wood and polyester resin will be the cheapest. Doing it from the inside, using composite core such as Coosa and laminating with...

Yep. All the same stuff.

Stick that engine/drive up on THT. Someone will snatch it up. Or maybe you could use it in a Jackshaft configuration? Since you have to rebuild the gunwales, have you thought about doing a broken sheer line? I love that look, but somehow ended up with two boats w/out it...

I spent a little time over the weekend working on the bracket. I wanted to get the existing caulking off of the mounting surface so I could see how much corrosion I need to address and then make a template for checking fit against the transom. The good news is the caulking came off w/out too...

Yep. Took me about an hour to do all 6 on my old 225s. I think there are 2 10 mm bolts holding each pump on and the lines are simply secured with zip ties. I don't remember the order in which I disassembled/reassembled things, but in this case it probably doesn't matter. However, I do seem...

Most of today's electronics have the ability to display input voltage. Since these will be wired to your house battery, you already have your meter there. Sure they are susceptible to voltage drop, but that should be minimal if the rest of your electrical system in in good shape and you'll...

That looks ridiculous... :roll:

Duh...my bad. How could I have forgotten that??? :-|

I've also heard really good things about Young's. Or if you want to travel a bit, Raybo Marine in Lindenhurst, NY is VERY good. You can see his work over on classicmako.com.

I would at least bevel the edges a bit and lay some mat or light cloth before you fair and gelcoat.

True. But then you have to step down into or over the engine well and avoild all the rigging. I completely understand why they put it where they did. Grady isn't targeting the hard core fishermen, they are persuing the family fisherman market. That became obvious when the Sailfish went...

It makes more sense for swimming.

Try twisting it as you pull.

You have the 212 Chesapeake. It's the only 21' Grady made back in 1970. http://www.gradywhite.com/customer/cata ... s/1970.pdf I wouldn't expect too much from that hull in terms of ride. It seems to be a relatively low deadrise design and even with the wood coring in it, it was pretty light...

I would use this as an opportunity to redesign the layout of those wells. I had the same setup in my old 204 and in my 17 Mako...and it's stupid. In my opinion, the wells are too small to be of any real use. Well...you can fit a few flounder in there...and a bunch of beers. You could...

Do yourself a favor and pull the tank for inspection before you jump right into a replacement. Once you see what kind of shape it's in, then you can make your decision. Chance are you'll have a few spots of corrosion that you can clean up. Get the corrosion out, etch them, fill w/ gray Marine...

Coat it first, then put the strips on.

Yep....that will work just fine.

I was gonna say either coal tar or Interprotect. My tanks are going to get Interprotect mostly because I already have some....if it doesn't got bad by the time I get around to using it. :cry:

I think the only "deal" I've gotten so far is the new 80 gallon tank (complete w/ WEMA sender) for $100... I doubt I'll ever be able to top that. :) Found it on THT/ClassicSeacraft. It was on a 23' Seacraft and the owner was switching to a Hermco in order to prepare for a future 4-stroke...