Search results

Re: '76 Formula 233 project: "new" motor and fuel tank Because of the amount of lift needed to get the engines to clear the transom, the engine hoist I normally borrow wasn't going to work. So, I ended up copying a method I've seen used here and on ClassicSeaCraft. On Veteran's Day I secured...

I'm pretty sure electric reels take a plug like that.

Or close in the transom and stick a bracket on that sucker. :)

Sorry, should have been a little more clear. If you can move the winch stand back, set it directly on the tongue and still keep it between the frame rails that's best. If that requires moving it back pretty far, you will probably need to set your bunks back in their original position and play...

What's your tongue weight now? If this is how your trailer looks, you can still move the winch stand back. You just have to be creative with it. What you need to do is make a shim to go under the bottom of the winch stand that is the same thickness as the part of the main beams that rest on...

Post a pic that shows the @ss end of the rig. We need to see how close the end of the bunks are to the transom.

If you're serious about a Mako, look at model years '95 and newer. That is when the company was privately owned by the Schwebke family and produced the best quality rigs. There are several really nice 261s for sale on www.classicmako.com.

If you do decide to cut it, I would bevel back the figerglass around the cut areas, lay some new glass over the cut and gelcoat. That will best protect the core from water intrusion.

Hard to shift as in the throttle was hard to move or the throttle moved fine, but the engine wouldn't go into gear and would grind? If the latter, then I would believe the idle speed diagnosis. Disconnect the shift/throttle cables at the motor end and see if if the throttle is easier to move...

Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - can't catch a break As I now have to perform surgery on the garage roof/ceiling, I needed to get the boat out of the garage so I would have room to work. My original plan was to put her back on the trailer, cover her up and go back to outdoor storage for a little...

Re: '76 Formula 233 project: "new" motor and fuel tank Took a deposit on the old 140 Mercruisers last weekend. :) So, I started prepping them to come out of the boat. Removed all of the gauges, disconnected and removed the wiring harnesses and pulled the outdrives. My service manual says...

Spray-on zinc chromate is not the proper way to protect a new tank. Chemically etch it with something like West System's 860 aluminum etching kit and follow that up with an epoxy paint. I'm going to be using Interprotect on the new tanks for my boats.

I would just remove the whole thing, sell it and get a single aftermarket platform that's made out of Starboard or the like.

For $8500, your options in the used single engine market are about endless. Two years ago, I bought two '00 200 OX66s and all new controls, rigging, gauges, etc for about that much. I would look for the newest 225/250 OX66 you can find. Heck, start calling every dealer w/in 500 miles and ask...

Get in touch with Rob at Raybo Marine. He's in your neck of the woods and can probably turn you on to a local builder. Raybo Marine 455 W Montauk Hwy Lindenhurst, NY 11757 631-957-1919

Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - ready for transom core Was hoping to be able to report this morning that the new transom core was installed yesterday. Unfortunately, Mother Nature put the brakes on that with several consecutive days of heavy rain towards the end of last week. This in turn resulted...

Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - ready for transom core Yep, the floor isn't perfect. I picked the flattest spot I could find. Had no problems getting 1/2" ply to conform when I rebuilt the gas tank hatches in my Sailfish. 3/4" is a different animal though...as I found out. Live and learn...

Re: 1981 Mako 17 Project - 9/20/10 Update Finished up grinding the outer skin of my new transom yesterday. While doing so, I came to the conclusion that I should have cut further up the gunwales when I removed the aft section of the liner. Getting up under there to grind/rough things up was a...

Rare bird you have there. I've only seen/heard of 5 or 6 over the years. From what I remember, the original diesel was very low power and performance was less than adequate. One of the ones I heard of supposedly had a modern diesel fitted, but the engine box had to be raised to accomodate...

Just replace them. After I replaced the pumps on my old 225s, I tried to break one down just to get a look at it and couldn't get it to open up. I think the diaphram kits are almost as expensive as new pumps. Two zip ties and two bolts (10mm heads I think) on each. It's a piece of cake.