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I'm on my 4th Owens trailer....good people to deal with who stand behind their product and still build them on a handshake. Congrats on the new rig.

PRI-G. A little tougher to find (I buy it from Amazon). I used it for years and never had a problem. Switched to Startron on a boat that I have now sold and had some fuel related issues. Went back to PRI-G on the last boat and this one and - again - no fuel system problems.

225 Tournament - extended Bimini Top to cover the entire cockpit as well as a custom cockpit cover and bow cover for storage...

That lawn mower voltmeter is vintage OMC. You can probably sell it on eBay. As far as voltage is concerned I have it set up as an overlay on my GPS and you may be able to do the same. I'd look at someone like New Wire Marine that can build you a switch panel, and with a CNC router they can cut...

Anco 52-16 also sold at NAPA under their part number 601605. About $11 last time I bought them.

$5K for a perfectly running F250 seems light to me. I think you can shop around and do better. I'd look at some of the higher volume Yamaha dealers around the SE....Hickory Bluff Marine in Brunswick GA; Vero Marine; Palm Beach Outboards....the guys that do a lot of repower work. I'd also make...

Older Grady's had the fuel switch for some reason. My 1986 was the same way. Unless you have dual tanks, you can remove the switch and wire the "+" side to the key.

I removed the plexiglass door on my 225 (it kept flopping down) and replaced it with a piece of Starboard. While I lost the storage aspect (not a big deal since I still have the glovebox), it is much cleaner this way and the electronics are easier to read.

I tow my 2000 225 with either an 08 Tahoe (5.3) or a 2010 Yukon Denali (6.2). Both handle the boat without any problem and I've regularly made 700 mile tows without issue. Your weights are close....my 225 scales out at about 5300 with a half tank of fuel. My trailer is a 7000 GVW or 5900 net...

Congratulations and welcome to the forum..... :welcome

You can buy replacement switches with legible labels. Reach out to New Wire Marine. (www.newwiremarine.com) For the owners manual, you can download it from Grady's site. Just have your HIN handy.

Sounds like you only have one tank. The second tank was probably an option and yours wasn't built with it.

Interesting tip on the plastics. I've used Clorox Clean Up with good results....just be careful about spraying it near the seams on the cushions as the bleach will definitely eat the threads. It removes the mold and mildew though - quickly. I also use it on the deck as I too have a leaf...

Congrats - great looking boat and trailer. Might want to adjust the winch stand though....it should hit the bow eye pretty close to horizontal. Right now it appears the strap is pulling the boat "up".

Kangasell - here is the part you need. Two per seat. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grady-White-Sli ... So&vxp=mtr You might be able to buy all 4 and get a discount. I buy all my parts from Vero Marine (www.veromarine.com). They will ship directly to you.

SBA, the first panel was done by Florida Marine Plastics....caveat emptor with them...Google and read away. The second panel was done by fellow GG member jbrinch88 who was doing some starboard work for awhile but I believe he has changed marinas and no longer has access to the woodworking tools...

SBA - I had a Seafarer....now have a Tournament. In both cases I removed the door and did a flush mount panel. The Seafarer panel was done with 1/4" Starboard. I found it to not have enough strength and in the summer, would warp slightly due to the weight of the GPS. Went with 1/2" Starboard...

Call GW and they will send you a spreadsheet with all the measurements needed for a trailer.

http://gradywhite.com/media/5513/1996-272.pdf Have to scroll through the models to find it.....

New or used? Bunk or roller? Where are you located?