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Determining the best rpm for fuel efficiency on any boat is actually very simple. It is the lowest rpm/speed that will keep the boat solidly on plane in any given sea condition. While an engine's peak efficiency, in theory, is at the peak of its torque curve, the effect of air and water...

PS-Did you used to fish near Reno? Sure did. Fished Pyramid at least 50 times per year. Also Stampede, Donner, Davis, Frenchman's, and Eagle. Once in a while, we'd go up to Tahoe. Also fished the Pacific out of Bodega, Monterey, and Fort Bragg.

Honda uses the HC5345-3 cylinder that fits most single engines regardless of the manufacturer. Whatever Grady used 11 years ago didn't fit the yolk on the Honda.

Simple Green worked for me.

Yamaha was my most expensive repower option. The best I could do was ~$23,000 for an F250. The Honda cost just under $20,000 and a Tahatsu, which is the same engine, was about $18,000. Those prices are rigged, with new cables and gauges, and include taxes. I'd have gone with the Tahatsu, but...

Have a nice trip and good luck! I've been thinking of an east coast trip myself. I'm getting tired of snapper and grouper and they won't let us keep much over here until June. Some pelagics would be a nice change.

I can only speak from previous experiences with their carburated engines. I had a BH90 and a BH8 on a boat I had on the west coast before I moved back to Florida. Their carb jets had very small clearances and they were sensitive to stale or dirty fuel. I used Stabil all the time but still had...

Try bleeding the system. If a little air gets in there it can feel sticky.

I used a 7 lb Danforth style anchor with 8 ft of chain for many many years. But I switched over to a Fortress FX-7 (4 lb) and I've really been impressed. It sticks faster than the heavier anchor and there is a lot less whining from the crew when it's time to pull. It's the chain that is the...

I had great luck with the auxiliary charge cable on my old F250. My batteries lasted over 7 years and the house battery stay charged just fine with the switch in the #1 position. The thing I liked best about that setup is that I could switch to either battery and check the voltage. With my ACR...

My boat only bow steered when off plane at low speed with the old engine. I could minimize the effect by trimming the engine way up. It had something to do with the fore-aft center of balance. I don't keep much in the cuddy except for fishing gear and a pair of light anchors. But the bow plows...

The engine is very quiet throughout the power range. It gets me the same top speed as the F250, but doesn't have the mid-range torque. It has an interesting fueling profile that has a lean burn range and a BLAST range that you really only feel if you push the throttle all the way on...

I finally got tired of my original F250 making oil so I went ahead and turned it into a brand new 2019 BF250. Now I hope I can finally troll without changing the oil every 20 hr. It's going to take a while to get used to that big silver thing back there. I also added a Bob's Machine Shop...

I just re-powered with a Honda that replaced my original F250 with the auxiliary charge cable. No auxiliary charge cable with the Honda so I put in an ACR. I don't like it as much as the old setup. You have to believe that the ACR is keeping both batteries charged since you can't select one...

I never trust anybody with more than 2 engines on their transom. :rolleyes:

You need to tape the low water pickup as others have said. But I've found that my F250 would send an overheat signal if I at anything over the 700-800 rpm dead idle speed using only the muffs (the large double-sided ones). My Yamaha tech neighbor turned me on to using 2 hoses, one to the muffs...

The idea is to keep the mold from forming in the first place. Mold needs moisture, food, and shade in order to grow. I try to keep all of the vinyl clean using that Starbrite deck cleaner whenever I wash down the boat. Mold grows on pollen and other dirt components that get carried in as...

That armrest trick is pretty slick, isn't it? :cool: I wasted a bunch of money on new ones before I figured out how to clean up the old ones.

The key to precise location over a wreck or reef is to use a marker buoy and a narrow beam transducer. I use an Airmar B60 running at 200 kHz. This has an 12-degree beam that illuminates a 22 ft circle at 100 ft. Using a wider beam or lower frequency illuminates too large an are for precise...

CHIRP has been way over-hyped. The ability to scan across multiple frequencies produces better target separation and increased sensitivity for spotting fish and bait up in the water column. You see real arches (rather than the artificial ones produced by older Navico units) rather than blobs...