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Rather than taping, just stuff some plastic steel wool or scotchbrite pads in there - just in case water needs to drain out for some reason. I hear 'ya on making it last and can appreciate that! I hope you know I'm not making any of these suggestions to give you more work - just offering them...

Hmmm... I LIKE that idea you did with that 1x! I might steal that for next year. Until now, I've just slipped empty antifreeze bottles over them before I shrink wrap. If you're worried about the 2x6 being on the flat, add a leg in the middle of it going down to the floor. Under the leg, put...

What did you find in Perko's website that you liked or thought might work?

For the price that those go at, that's actually a pretty nice looking cover. Nice! Question... do you get a decent amount of snow where you are? What did you use to support the cover against the snow load? You'll need that - otherwise the cover will likely rip. In your second picture there...

Guys - he specifically asked about a cover to be used while in a slip :)

That's an easy one. Minn Kota (and I'm sure others) make a couple different styles of quick-disconnect mounts. They work very well.

How "nicely" do you want it to fit? Do you have a hardtop? Most of the over-the-counter styles are probably not going to work very well while your boat is in the slip - which you mentioned is your goal. They'll end up being loose fitting and/or the tie downs will be to close too the water...

Look at all of his pics - it's obvious it a DC. Although for the purposes of the thread, what's behind the mounting area doesn't really matter. Did you have a question related to doing this on your boat?

TLC, if you haven't yet done so, start spraying the nut every day with something like PB Blaster - or even heavy duty vinegar - it's available at HD/Lowes and much stronger than regular vinegar and works well to eat salt. After a few applications, then come back with the PB Blaster.

Another way to fix this, if you're not worried about matching the final shape (which is fine - it won't affect anything) is to just throw a few coats of epoxy on it, about 10 minutes apart from each other to let the first coat sink in. That will completely waterproof the area. I'd sand it a...

Recon, I normally don't mention this as I'm on this forum as a Grady owner/enthusiast - not for advertising. But it sounds like you're in a bind. If you're interested, as luck would have it, my shop is in Allentown (and I own an older Offshore!). I'm not sure what you're all after in the...

It's such a small area that it really doesn't matter what cloth (if any) that you use. You're going to be cutting it up into really small pieces. But sure you can use Kitty hair or Tiger hair INSTEAD of epoxy/cloth. Kitty/Tiger hair is not cloth - it's pre-mixed epoxy resin with strands of...

You can't just replace the bulb with an LED bulb. You have to replace the entire assembly to make sure you still have the required (by law) distance visibilty spec. LED and incandescants have different wavelengths and the housings are specifically designed for such. The LED will "appear"...

You shouldn't have any problems finding an LED replacement. Go to Perko's website and look through their catalog - there's quite a few to look at. You may/may not find a "perfect" match for the footprint - but you'lll certainly find something that will be just fine. Once you find what you...

I've read of using two screwdrivers inserted into the thru-hull on the outside and holding them in an X pattern to wedge against the thru-hull nibs and then beign able to turn it. Never tried it, myself. Another thought... but never tried it... what about a piece of 1/4" steel stock and then...

Good point - I have no idea what the access is like on his 265. I also agree that mid-December in this area is nothing to worry about when the boat is in the water regarding anything down in the bilge since the water will keep that area above freezing.

Marine Tex (or PC-11) will be fine. Although not "needed", a better solution would be to do a quick coat or two of epoxy resin and then thicken the epoxy to finish it off. Grind it out a little bigger, first. Polyester resin would be fine, too - it's less expensive than epoxy, but epoxy is...

I run it dry then pull the hose off the seacock and just stick it in a gallon of pink stuff and run the washdown till pink comes out.

The "capacity" has nothing to do with a windlass. Capacity is all about the rope locker. Measure the locker where you would anticipate cutting the hole for the windlass. How deep is it? I suspect it's not going to be anywhere near deep enough - but that's only a guess. On the other hand, an...

You could first try some vinegar - or even better "heavy duty" vinegar. You can buy the HD stuff at your local box store. It's about 30% vinegar compared to household vinegar that is less than 5% vinegar. Saturate a cloth and let it sit for a few minutes. When it comes to buffing, you...