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Not nearly enough interest in something like that to have patterns on hand. It's an extremely low demand product. Besides, it's super easy to make a pattern, transfer it to a piece of plywood, HDPE or PVC, then take it to a local upholster to make the cushion & skin.

There shoudl only be one "control" (the control box... throttel and shift). But you will also have T & S cables. It "seems" a couple pieces are missing? What exactly is missing? Most likely, the cables are freezing up and/or the contorl box needs to be greased. Figure out what you need to...

Nothing wrong with pulling the sender out. It absolutely, positively won't cause any issues with it at all. If it does, it was on borrowed time and ready for replacement anyways. If you do your method... when you disconnect the sender, will that "reset" the procedure? I don't know the answer...

Sure, no problem :)

Rob, what we are talking about is that the amount of rope a locker can handle without a windlass has no correlation to what it can handle with a windlass - which is the OP's concern.

I use Pettit Hydrocoat Eco on the boat and engine. It doesn't have copper. I wouldn't be opposed to using Hawk's or TotalBoat's version, either. Spray paint anti-foul is not worth it - just doesn't cut it. Trilux 33 (brush on) is an excellent choice if you don't want to use the boat's...

I highly doubt that. There's really no correlation that I can think of. See what the backer plate (or lack there of) is like, as well. Remember to grind PAST the crack to properly fix it.

Truthfully, that shouldn't do it. The Lifting Eye option, from what I know (don't know) about Grady is that the bow eye is then tied in to a center cleat on the deck - and THAT is then used as the lifting point (making it a bit easier). But it's quite normal to lift a boat with the bow eye -...

I agree, that looks too wide to be a gelcoat stress crack. Pull the bow eye out and inspect further - both inside the crack and the inside of the boat. You may need to grind away the glass on the inside. This is an extremely rare place to get a crack - this is one of the strongest parts of...

Did you do anything special for the prep of the vinyl? I assume you cleaned it well, but anything else like using a scotchbrite pad or something? What was the primer and topcoat process?

The nuts don't leak - that's just where the fluid is squirting out from. The nuts tighten the seal, but they don't make the seal.

You're talking about the fitting on the bottom of the livewell to drain it? If the livewell is empty, why is it still leaking water?

Do you have access to the dash from the cabin? In my Offshore, there is a carpeted box that can be removed. You can also remove a dash panel to help with access. Other than that, the access via going underneath is probably like pretty much every other boat out there - not "easy", but...

Remove the old bronze tube, verify the wood core is good, let it dry and coat the core with epoxy a few times (letting it soak in), then replace the tube with the plastic one from TH Marine using a good sealant like LifeSeal (or similar) - do not use 3M5200 or even 3M4200 - you don't need...

But I've ALMOST got it... I know I can get it... Almost there... Almost there... 3 hours later: Screw it, I'm cutting it off Yeah, been there before on similar things! Spending an inordinate amount of time trying to save an old, inexpensive part.

Does the boat stay in the water? Did you check from both the inside and outside? Is there a another thru-hull installed in front of it?

Is it possible your thru-hull for the pump is clogged with weeds or growth?

Disregard the "sticker" on a battery. What you need to know is who makes the battery. For wet cell batteries, Deka is (and has been) the best and most reliable (made by East Penn Manufacturing). As others mentioned, need more info about the voltage you are seeing and how you are measuring...

It's possible that it is correct. Meaning, the trailer may be too big/long for your boat so to get the tongue weight right, the boat had to be slid further forward. Just off the top of my head, a trailer rated to carry 18K lbs sounds awful big for a Marlin. Obviously it made it from FLA to...

Sure, as long as it doesn't have metal (usually copper) in it.