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I too have left the dock with a livewell full of ice, planning to use it for a fish box to save room, only to open the lid for the first fish, and find it full of nothing but seawater. My inlet is behind a starboard panel, which sends the water in a circular motion, so I can't just put a plug...

And, the reason most of us have probably never seen a horizontal fire extinguisher, unless it was DIY, and especially on a moving vehicle, is that the powder will pack the nozzle, and you may have a misfire at the worst possible time.

The check valve only keeps it from draining when not in motion, with the pump not running. It does not prevent water coming in.

I think the most commonly used guides are the square galvanized tubing, bent close to 90°, and clamped to the main trailer beam, which the PVC pipe fits over. There are two common sizes, with the taller one giving you a better alignment strength, with a taller boat such as a Grady. Also, if you...

Appropriately sized snaps are OK under tension, but they are lousy under shock. Growing up on a farm, I have seen many of them snapped by a horse, or a cow, throwing their head up when their lead is attached to a solid object.

It would be encouraging to think that they put the through hulls in solid glass

“….. so below the waterline up to the chine is all balsa,…” Do you mean all glass?

Boats are not usually moored by the stern lifting eye. Are you mooring, or docking?

A battery box lid would be a good solution, if you could find the right size, where the ends would rest on top of the bars where the green handle comes out. May seem crazy, if you had to buy three boxes and only use the top, but they can be had on Amazon prime for under $12. I would probably run...

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IMHO, you don’t want a seal below the deck. There are only two places for water on deck to go, underneath the top fitting, or down the drain. If water does get under the top fitting, I would rather it drip to the bilge than to get trapped because of a seal underneath, and weep into the deck...

Can’t help on the drains, but since you have them out, take one with you when you buy hose. I started with inch and a half sanitation hose for my replacement, but it was too large to clamp down leakproof on the fitting. I ended up using inch and a quarter sanitation hose and flaring the end just...

I assume there are some existing lifts in the marina? I don’t see any power on that pier down the middle, how will you pump the water out?

Sorry, not my boat. I posted a pic in response to Hookup not knowing what a casting deck was in the post above mine.

A cable zip tie is acceptable for the seacock, I wonder if they would accept the removable ones posted here a couple weeks ago. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GR496P3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I believe it is the insert to fill in between the 2 bow seats.

First boat, I'd be trying to keep it simple, like replace with same. If I had to guess, I would say a Yamaha 704 on that vintage. Does yours look like this? https://www.partsvu.com/yamaha-704-premium-single-engine-outboard-throttle-control-box-704-48205-r0-00-supersedes-704-48205-p1-00.html

I started with inch and a half sanitation hose, but it was a loose fit on both ends, and would not clamp drip proof. May have been the brand, but I switched to inch and a quarter in the same brand, and flared the ends with a heat gun, and it worked out great. Reverse engineered the channel locks...

At times, you are pretty much working blind, just reaching your arm in there, trying to wrestle hoses on and off. These screws protrude through from the holes where the rod holders fit under the Gunnels. THEY ARE SHARP!!

I used the first one, from boat outfitters, and it was a good fit. The top of the flange is 2 13/16 inches. If the other one is 3 inches, I am not sure that it would fit down in the pocket, and give you a little recess there to help collect leaves, or anything else in the runoff.