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That is a great bearing system. Could there be more weight on that side? Wheel alignment issue? Just thinking out loud. That is odd.

If all is good with spark n compression, you can advance timing a few degrees and back off on the throttle to get a 900 in neutral in the water and a 750 in gear setting. Sometimes back throttle air adjustments to zero and add timing to get the rpms. Advanced timing gives better torque at idle.

Have you checked spark and compression to all 6 cylinders? That is the first place to start.

It is a pretty good video. Very welcome.

I carry 2 loaded hubs in my tool box. That is the easiest way to go. Also the cleanest. Lol.

Great advice. Take note if your nut is coarse thread or fine thread so you can back off the correct amount. I usually tighten it to seat the bearings and back it off til I feel very slight side to side wobble. Then go to the closest slot for the cotter pin. Go to the tighter slot for new...

Does it make noise when you jack up the tire and roll it by hand? Grab tire at top and bottom while on the jack and see if there is any wobble. I trailer my boat 20000 miles a year. I keep my bearings greased well and tight. If any water gets in, replace no matter what. Also replace if you can...

Long video but Has a lot of useful info.

If you need injectors, I have had good luck with the aftermarket injectors from eBay. I have them in mine and I know of 10 other motors that have them with no issues. https://www.ebay.com/itm/202989958039

This is for a 228 seafarer with same motor.

There are lots of styles for propellers. Some have bow lift, some designed to not cavitate etc. here is a Yamaha link that may help. Sounds like you need bow lift prop, or your motor is too low on the transom. My 24 offshore gets 48 mph at 5900 with 2005 f250 Yamaha. I run a 21 pitch oem Yamaha...

Yw. It is quite common.

https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-year/1999/130tlrx/bracket-2 The part that usually breaks is #1 in the diagram. The sensor is #3. The replacement collars are metal. Sometimes the sensor freezes up and just needs to be exercised and lubricated.

Maybe if you call Garmin, they will let you sign a waiver.

Pm you now. Yw.

No. Not the Cdi. The Cdi is the box on the rear of the engine. The oil control box is like a brain to the oil system only. It even has a sensor in it that knows the tilt of the engine so the oil pump is not activated when the engine is in full tilt. Takes the info from the sensors, then tells...

The control box is the black box under the tank where the toggle switch is. Just under there oil tank. You can see it in the pic. I have a box of good used ones in my shed. The box is what sends the message to trigger the alarm. the voltage is higher to the box when the rpms are up. That is...

Oil injection control box could be the culprit. If you get a good used one cheap, just swap it out n run it. They go bad sometimes, so not a bad idea to have one in your tool box just in case.