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We use damp rid bags to hang in the cabin here in fla. It works amazingly.helps prevent future deterioration

A light coat of 847 in the groove first will save almost any vst gasket unless it is really bad. I’ve sealed up a few hundred vst tanks without an issue.

I know exactly what you are talking about. Lol. Dry install gaskets are intake and mostly fuel related. Anything with water uses a sealer. 2 stroke head gaskets get perfect seal around the outside of the water jackets and a dry install for the compression ring at the sleeves. I use 847 when I...

On rare occasions, cleaning the vst filter did not work. I’ve had to replace the filter to get it to pass sufficient fuel through. I usually put new ones in the first round so I know it is going to be ok.

The easy way to set the gasket is to apply a layer of 3m 847 between the housing and the gasket and let it dry for about 15 min. You can then install it without any problems. You can use 3m weatherstrip adhesive in a pinch but I prefer 847. The rubber grommet removal is carefully done with a...

some shops try to get by by replacing just the rubber impeller and not changing the whole housing, plate, gaskets etc. If there are any scratches in the lower stainless wear plate, idle water pressure will be down. An easy mistake is to not seat the oring under the housing around the cup. A...

I had mine made out of sumbrella. They are waterproof and last. Little more expensive but you do get what you pay for.

Ccx63322 is your part number. I have 22ft in my offshore also. I replaced them 12 maybe 13 years ago and they are still like new.

Flagship does a great job cleaning injectors. I was just there Friday to pick up 12 Optimax injectors for a customer. I usually buy the new ones off the internet (eBay)for the Yamahas. They are cheaper than having the old ones cleaned and have the same numbers stamped on them. Actually some...

You have a beautiful boat there. Very well maintained.

Ccx633xx is the part number. Xx stands for the length in ft.

Teleflex extremes are the way to go. I wouldn’t install any other brand for my boat.

https://www.stainlessmarine.com/product-category/outboard-engine-brackets/outboard-engine-brackets-single-engine-brackets/30-single-brackets/ I have a used 30in setback bracket just like this one in great shape that I haven’t advertised yet. Going to go for$950.

Not too bad of a job. The biggest issue you will have is if the Bracket mounting bolts going through the aluminum Are salted together. You may have to cook the aluminum around the bolt with oxygen acetylene to get the bolts out.

On the looper motors with idle adjustment screws, the screw controls the air flow, not the fuel flow. To richen the fuel, you would turn the screws in so it will slow down the air intake.

Usually the high speed timing spec is on a sticker on the top of the air box. The safe adjustment is spec minus 2 deg for high speed.

Some of the loopers have fixed idle jets. Sometimes you can experiment putting tooth picks into the brass jets on the front of the carbs. This riches the idle for each individual carb. Do one or 2 at a time to see how it reacts. I’ve rejetted them with smaller air jets to get them to idle...

Yes it is. Some models have an added adjustment screw with a locknut under the flywheel also.

That is crazy. I think I would get a new set of bearings and see what happens. If the races don’t catch your nail, you could get away with just the bearings. Just pack them well before installation.