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I repaired mine 10 years ago. Mine is a 93 in my 88 offshore. I took it out, sandblasted the pits, used pc-11( like marine Tex) to fill the pits. Then I sanded it down and fiberglassed the tank with 3/4oz mat. That keeps it from corroding again. Still in perfect shape.

Cost is about 12 to 14 dollars a gallon to fabricate a tank here in sw Florida.

How many gallon tank do you have?

I agree. I think the tank is pitted on the bottom and leaking the gas out.

Also, the dry exhaust would leak into the cooling water passage and cause overheating. Maybe in your case, blow extra water out the back under pressure and not overheat because it is blowing into water passages that have already been through the motor. Just a thought.

Yamaha’s answer to the Corrosion problem was to install a protective coating I have seen where the replacement parts to fix the exhaust had the coating worn off by exhaust gasses and corrosion had started again. I’ve seen 225hp and some 250hp with the “Yamarot”.

Yes, power head has to come off to change shaft. May want to have the exhaust tuner checked when the time comes to pull the power head. You can check it now with the lower unit off by looking up the exhaust column and seeing if there is any white substance ( like little white salt balls) on...

Is it possible to drill a hole, tap, and put in a stainless set screw with a female Allan head like a railing fitting?

Wow. Never seen one come off here in fla. I use 271 locktite for anything I don’t want coming loose. Here in south fla, we have terrible salt corrosion issues. We call it “Florida locktite”.

The main problem was the exhaust tuner will corrode through and leak water into the engine oil.

Citadel military college (1992). No other military background. As you were saying, “approach the dock slip slowly”. I always tell someone “never approach a dock any faster than you are willing to hit it.” Lol. I want to thank everyone for their service!!!

I like your custom deck vent. Pretty crafty.

thank you. you are doing an incredible job. just in time to get on the water for the summer.

Very nice setup. Do you have any pics on how the side compartment to the right of the driver side is set up with the starboard?

It could possibly be a stick open thermostat. How long has it been since they were changed? I recommend changing them every 2 years.

just realized from your shift link pic. you have a 4 stroke, not a 2 stroke. totally different unit. they have a14/21 ratio. same gears also fit a 250hp and 300 hp.

sounds like it is time to remove the lower unit and shift the unit with a pair of vise grips. grab it LIGHTLY at the bottom of the splines and shift it while you turn the prop. if you experience the same result with forward, your clutch to gear teeth are worn. sometimes you can get away with a...

If the metal came from the clutch, it will have a brass color. Gears are metallic silver color. Take the metal off the screw and run it between your fingers. Should not feel the metal chunks. Normal gear wear is extremely fine. Brass flakes will be in the oil when you drain it if the clutch is worn.

When you shift by hand, should be able to shift easily with 2 fingers while engine is running. If there is a gushing issue, it will be just under the intake of the power head. There are 2 bushings there. 1 small one under the clip and one behind the grease fitting. If you can get a grease gun on...

Sounds like it is time to look for metal on the magnet of the oil drain screw