Just get the new grady stuff. Color matches perfect. Looks like the new models and doing it in stainless adds no additional transom support. First glance it looks non oem
Ya kno, I think I used a hole saw to open the hole in the box. My step bit was too small
but all right and no leaks. Pita but didn’t have to cut any access hole.
It’s a two person job. Need a step bit.
Stick a scraper or something in the drain in the box and unthread the drain out. There is two tabs inside the drain for the scraper to press against to thread out.
Once that’s out take the hose clamp off the hose that goes to the T and pull the hose and 90...
There is no perfect answer for 100% of the population. What makes it great is you are free to say what you want and not get hanged for it. If you want to move you go a great boat for NZ.
Pretty sure factory from
Grady is one hole up from the bottom. Other have gone higher with good results. If I was you I would go up two holes and see how you like it. I played around with changing heights on my grady bracket years ago and remember a significant change on each height.
What I ended up doing. Called grady and got their new stuff. $3 a foot and matches perfectly. Doesn’t bow with heat and used 1/4” starboard as a spacer. Works great so far this year.
https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/transom-cap-bang-plate-replacement.29251/
The north channel is called the north cut. Someone always running through its unmarked. Would just follow someone coming in or out. The inlet was dredged and plenty deep in the markers. You can easily see where the sand bars are.