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I realize you're past this boat and this is a moot point, but thanks for clarifying as it's an interesting thing to happen. If this was at "level" rest, and not with the bow elevated due to some engine power and trim high (which would essentially sink the stern), I "suspect" there may have been...

I'm not saying the boat is purchase-worthy or not - I'm not there to look at it. GWSeeker has gotta do what he feels is best. However, we still don't know if the water was there AT REST, or not. I had inquired if people were standing back there and/or if there was water in the bilge, but...

For future reference... -- It's actually not a problem for them to be below the waterline. They'll still drain if the cockpit floor is above the waterline. -- The boat was just in the water, right? Putting a moisture meter on a boat that was just recently in the water is fruitless. Of...

They're kind of hit or miss. You never really know if they're going to help or make things worse. For some of the reasons mentioned above, though, if you wanted to experiment, go with the kind that attaches to the anti-ventilation plate. However, they only produce "X" amount of pounds of...

GWSeeker... When you noticed the water coming in, was there a couple people back there in the aft section of the boat? And then... did more come over to look? If there was extra weight in the stern, this is exactly what happens. The scuppers on the older GW's are typically very close to the...

When you turn the battery off, that should kill power to the stereo. The battery switch is like a master switch or a "double check" that all things are off. Leaving them switched on doesn't really matter (although it's best practice to always to turn them off).

One thing you didn't mention (and I suppose I assumed you were doing it correctly since you probably have had the boat for a while?) is how you had the engine trimmed and whether or not you used tabs. Run it again with just you - or just a couple people - see how it does. While 7 people can...

Oh, OK - now it makes sense :) In reading "threads", I thought you were talking about "screw" threads (like a bolt)!

Huh? I don't understand what you're saying there. I don't think there was anything that we said that's "the same". I said that it DOESN'T make sense that an arrow would be facing against the flow. I'm not sure what "threads on that arrow" means?

At this point, it doesn't rally matter how it's run on other boats and/or if the GW diagrams are correct. It's kind of a moot point, you know? All that matters is if the existing "pre-wiring" is the correct size for the windlass you are installing - you need to estimate the entire "run" of...

The vent is built into the cap and vents "above" where the o-ring seals.

This is the only maintenance that you did? Just logically thinking about this... it doesn't make sense that the arrow would be facing towards the tank. Arrows on things like this always dictate the flow of fluid. Maybe you misread the arrow? Switch it around... do things now work as they should?

"Most" battery switches installed nowadays are "make before break" meaning there is a never a dead spot when turning the switch between 1-2-Both. Obviously there's a dead spot when turning to OFF :) This means it's always OK switch the switch while the engine is running. Freedom - you can...

"Perko style" is not descriptive - meaning, Perko is a brand and makes different styles... and there are other brands of fills that may/may not look like a Perko. The "knurled edge" sounds like a Perko brand - it would also have two holes for a gas key, but usually your palm is all that you...

Generally, plastic is much less susceptible to condensation than aluminum tanks and an empty plastic tank is pretty much immune to it. Yup - definitely don't use more than a couple pounds of pressure. There's really no need for more, anyways. If I understood you correctly, you said there was...

-- Dirty bottom -- Cavitation (highly unlikely unless the prop is damaged) -- Ventilation... can be caused by numerous things, even just some weeds on the prop -- Weak hub (seems like that may not be it) -- Mechanical problem -- Trailer still attached

Even those integral fill/vent fuel fittings still have an o-ring in the cap. It's probably a Perko cap? A knurled edge that, usually, you just spin off with your palm? But it still has two holes for a key?

I don't know pricing - but I've seen companies online that can make what you want - try googling for center console windshields. On the other hand... and this would be my choice... I would have a piece of eisenglass (or similar material) made to fit between the front poles of the t-top...

I've run similar boats without a windshield but with a hardtop. I don't recall it really being any different because of the hardtop. You could always cut the windshield down a little - maybe that would give you what you're looking for? Keep things from flying away - but not in your line of...

Are your "thoughts" centered around how to do it... or just what it will be like without it? I have not removed a windshield on that particular boat, but they are typically pretty straight forward and easy to figure out. For the latter question... well, that's pretty explanatory - wind in your...