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If water came out the other usual areas that you see water exiting, then yes, the irrigation pump is fine.

Clark, clarify how you are doing the flushing. But if it's peeing good when in the water, I wouldn't worry about it. It doesn't have to pee to have good and proper cooling of the engine.

That seems like a lot of engine for that boat. My mother has a 2000 19 Tournament with a 150HP on it and it is plenty fast. It comes out of the hole very easily... VERY easily. I'm all for a bigger engine - but I think that's overkill. Do you feel you NEED 200HP? As far as brands go... I...

It's generic. Not usually used/seen. Check with the previous owner. Or, see what works when you press it.

OK, yes, you can go ahead and poke away at that to open it up. If you can get to the outboard side of the hole - use a razor knife around the perimeter of the hole - you should be ream/cut the glass away. There are LOT'S of boating specific terms! :)

You said the water level is "right up to my scuppers". That sounds like the level is just below the scuppers with the boat at rest? Leave it alone - don't add any weight up front. You're good. In reality, the water level compared to the scuppers is not a huge deal - it's more about the water...

Is this a limber hole in the stringer, back near the transom? And there should be an identical one on the port side, correct? Is your third picture the outboard side of the stringer? Find the hole on the outboard side of the stringer - maybe something is stuck in the hole. But, yes, there...

It seems as though you have a mix of "styles" of switches - meaning the nomenclature is not consistent. Yes, to me it just looks like a picture of a switch in a circuit. The picture is saying "open". No way to tell what it's for as it's just a generic ACC switch like the one next to it.

OK, thanks. Makes sense - that's where I was going with the "diagnosing" I was asking you to do.

There's really no way to say until you get in there. You can use some Git Rot and that should help. But it all depends on the exensiveness of the rot. BUT... you should know that the rot will likely be (it usually is) about 3 times as much as you are thinking. If it was me - seeing as how...

What was the fuse for?

See post #12 :) As smart as the guys on here are, this is something you want to do yourself and not trust someone else's measurements

Another common source of the tank getting wet is simply due to the nature of the beast where the tank is. It's lives in a moist environment. It is very common for condensation to build up on the underside of the hatch and then drip onto the tank. In this case, the underside of the hatch is...

Are you positive those are burn marks? It looks a lot more like years and years of salt/dirt/grime build-up. You can see how it would collect in a low spot along with water, and then drain off leaving the residue. Over time, the residue could get quite thick.

Black mildew is called "mold" :) Try any of the products available - or soak it in a mild solution of bleach/water for a while - then rinse and put it in the sun. That should at least get most of it.

I would install your arch so it's parallel with the cockpit floor. Then shim the radar as needed.

I didn't realize when you said earlier that you bypassed a harness that you meant the MAIN engine harness. Yes, I agree with you that that would have eliminated the kill switch as a variable. The engine is fuel injected. It won't start at all if the hi-pressure pump is not working.

Are you using a different spotlight this time? By chance, is it a lower profile light? If so, you can mount it further forward than your last one.

Believe me, I am NOT trying to sway you - far from it. It's your rig, your call. You need to do what you're comfortable with. But I do want to make the point to others reading this that the Yukon is absolutely fine to pull that weight (and who knows, maybe there was an issue with the truck)...