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1) See my comment above. I've used so many of these types of things, it's hard to narrow it down. Other than the suggestion to use the rubber or SS ones. 2) The sky's the limit - it's just a simple spacer. An old plastic cutting board can be used by cutting it up. It's made from HDPE...

It kinda looks like a plain old pole holder clip - of which there are MANY widely available. There are kinds made out rubber, as well - which are probably better. Also some made out of SS. Google or Amazon for something like boat pole holder clip. Or, if you have a marine retail store...

That would be fine - better than the original stuff, I'm sure. Some 3M4200 adhesive caulk would be fine, as well. Just tape-off well to avoid a squeeze-out mess.

The comments above about using caulking still apply. But just out of curiosity, since 4200 isn't UV stable, why would you consider that one?

I can't tell you when it's full, but I could tell you when it's empty ;) If it's really quiet around you, maybe you can find it by sound when filling? From your manual... yes, I did your homework for you :) Freshwater System The Freedom 235 has a pressurized freshwater system. The freshwater...

I'm sure there is - search for exterior caulk. I'm pretty sure there's colored caulk used with metal roofings, at the least. However, you could use a paintable caulk. I imagine it's going to separate/crack away from the vinyl rubrail in short order, though.

It's quite possible there was another variable at play with your setup that was unique, as well. In the end, all that matters is you got it dialed in for YOUR rig :)

For a very light/small boat I agree - it's a good idea to go to a higher percentage. But the 5% -7% comes direct from the manufacturers that I deal with and is also coming from not only personal experience but also the hundreds of trailers we've set up for decades. You can imagine that if you...

Just a side note... that 10% is more about travel trailers/5th wheels. For boat trailers, the manufacturers recommend 5% to 7%.

Not necessarily, Rob. Once you lay down the paint that sticks to plastic, you can then use any paint you want. You can probably find something that, if not exact, is so close that you can feather it/blend it and it will be nearly invisible.

"Replace entire cabin"... :D If you go the Git Rot route, you can use some paint-for-plastic to mitigate the brown spots. Take a piece of scouring pad to get rid of what you can, first.

It's hard to get them to work (well) with surge brakes.

If it looks/feels in person the way it looks in the picture... Nah, that ain't that bad. It wouldn't even take THAT much time. Totally doable and will solid when it's done... if the right person is doing it, of course! Chances are you can get the boat for a great price to MORE than account...

How did you verify the cables are fine? Some Goo Gone might take care of the black issue.

There's a number of side mount controls out there - Yamaha, Morse/Telefles, etc. All would be fine. Did you verify the box is bad? Could just be the cables.

While I've never used Git Rot, I've read plenty about it over the years and this might be a really good application for it. Drill a number of tiny holes above/around the perimeter of the soft spot and inject the Git Rot. And a couple holes in the rotten area, too. The Git rot will penetrate...

Can't help with the AP. I'm a big fan of the ProMariner ProNautic line - I have tons of experience with them being used in another boat line we carry - so I have literally seen hundreds of these over the years and they are very reliable and have excellent charging profiles - including...

That won't work if the pick-up tube for the pumpout is on top of the tank. That means that the pick-up (dip) tube goes very close to the bottom of the tank... no room for ice to escape the dip tube. Can you not access the tank? Just take a look. If need be, hold a flashlight against the side...

I hear 'ya. Unfortunately there's not much more to say - what I mentioned is pretty much the limitations of what feedback we can provide. It could be cosmetic... could be structural. The only way to know is to check it out. Hire a pro if you're not comfortable doing it yoruself.

As is always the case, and I'm sure you read about this, it's hard to diagnose stuff like this from where we are. Best guess is that it's some kind of impact damage. Is the glass damaged... don't know. What YOU need to do inspect the underlying glass. Sound it with your knuckles - compare to...