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Screw size? No, but it should be quite easy to figure it out just by trying. But... can you just use the old screws? Or plastic Christmas trees.

Put trim tabs on - or even something as simple as Smart Tabs - you'll be light years ahead of what any prop can do for you.

Another option... When I trailer, I just toss the PVC tubes into the cockpit. They slide right off.

Don't get me wrong - I'm not knocking the Seakeeper by any means. Just offering a solution at a fraction of the cost that I know works well at exactly what you're talking about. The Seakeeper probably works better. By how much? I don't know and won't even venture a guess as I have no...

I have not. Have you considered trying the Bennett auto tab control? It's only a couple hundred bucks (last I checked, anyways) and is usually a plug-n-play setup. I'm sure the SeaKeeper system is more advanced - but I've used the Bennett setup and it's quite good. Just a thought - it sure...

It's the way you worded it that is confusing. The chine is below the waterline. You can't go "up" to the chine from the waterline.

You could probably tighten them up a bit, but that's fine where they are. The widest point of your boat is further forward. If you really wanted to, you could set them to bend a bit when in contact with the widest point - and then "they'll be where they be" at the stern.

I'm not sure if AM Equipment is the manufacturer - but they're probably the biggest player in the marine wiper business. Look on the motor for ID.

In addition to what was mentioned... Don't use that clip - it's not strong enough. And, there's really no need for a swivel on a mooring line... unless your boat is doing flips in the air! Plus, swivels are a weak point. Rope to cleat is the best.

Depends on what you currently have and what your current data: max rated RPM for whatever motor you have... max RPM at WOT throttle when running... current prop specs. What are the answers to those ? However, your best bet is going to be to use the standard prop for your engine and add...

You can probably adapt what you have? Slice the part of the cover that is over your main battery cable. That allows you to get a couple more small wires in there - and then just zip tie the sliced "tube" of the cover. Sometimes, it will even work without the zip ties. If you have wires...

If no one here knows DEFINITEVELY, your best bet is to call Grady direct. Might as well get the answer direct from the horse's mouth (will save you time, too).

It's quite possible you do not have an "actual" grey water system. Yes, your boat would have "grey water" and "black water", but it may not have the option for true grey water system. In many cases with a grey water "system", the black water tank serves double duty and all grey water is...

So that is just a "false floor" in the storage area, correct? Are there any drains? I suspect it's a very simple false floor and not sealed in any way so water that gets in there will pass right through cracks around the edge and into the bilge? Pour some water in there and see what happens...

You're better off sticking with nylon. Any metal has a chance of causing galvanic corrosion. Most likely... it's being tightened way too much. It does NOT need to super tight. Let the caulk/sealant do it's job. That channel is a great design as it allows for extra sealant. Get yourself...

That negates "needing" a DC or DP. If you're happy with the DP's, keep going. Smaller OB's like a 150 don't really need much power (starting battery) to start them, anyways.

Preferred entails opinions. And, truthfully, there is no "one best" answer. Either of those methods are fine (assuming the DP batteries are quality and of sufficient size). Now, personally, I like a dedicated starting battery and a larger DC battery as I'm (relatively) smart enough to turn...

So you're saying that the fwd bilge drains/travels underneath this storage area? OK, start with looking at the midberth area to see how/where it drains to.

The most obvious answer to "why" is... because that's how they did it. :) More importantly, how do YOU want to do it? Does the midberth bilge drain to the aft bilge? Logically, that would make sense. Does the midberth also drain to/from the fwd bilge? I

Since your batteries are not wired in parallel (creating one "bank") they do not have to be the same type. In your case you have two "banks". Whether they are both starting batteries or (1) starting and (1) DC depends SOLELY on the owner of the boat and how he/she uses the boat and...