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What's the weight difference between the engines? The number of hours wouldn't bother me - maintenance history and engine health is key.

I was only responding to Hookup's comment which was specifically asking about screwing into the hull.

Yup - water pressure. The two arrows indicate pressure - the other part is standard for water.

It's a "better safe than sorry" thing. In theory, it could be fine. But screwing into a 1" thick hull with a 1/2" or 3/4" screw just isn't the wisest thing to do. Screwing in creates, essentially, a small spot where the hull is now only a 1/4" thick and more susceptible to opening up (it's...

Most manufacturer's only keep the molds for a certain number of years and then they scrap them. You can imagine how big the warehouse would have to be, otherwise. Who remembers this:

Ugh. You ruined a perfectly good straight edge ;)

That sounds like a good plan. I'd probably put some good foam rubber weatherstripping in a few key areas of the bracket where it would rest against a surface - it may help to eliminate chattering/vibration of the bracket (and eventual loosening). If your bilge floor is relatively level when...

FYI, you can get PVC board (regardless of name brand) at HD or Lowes.

Hatch lids were made in house by GW - you won't find new ones. You can repair them or duplicate them (or a good glass shop can do it).

Good idea. Azek is probably PVC? That would hold glue better than the HDPE.

Ditto and ditto to what was said above. Never screw directly into the hull. You may want to cut out the old plywood that's glassed in and replace it. Or glass a piece of plywood in another spot.

If this was something Grady made in house, which it sounds like you are saying it is, then there is no other place that would make it. You can search and search and search... and search some more online for a used one somewhere - maybe one from a wrecked boat. But that's about it. Otherwise...

Ha! OK, that's better! I gotta admit, I was a little worried :) Either that, or I was going to send you an email that stated it was time to send Dennis some money.....

Dock lines can be purchased just about anywhere - I wouldn't say there's really a "preferred" vendor or anything like that. But a company like NE Ropes is a known-good manufacturer. However, if you buy from a local store you should be getting good ropes from them, as well. BUT... how does WM...

See if you have 12V coming into and going out of the appropriate switch. While you're there, it will give you a good chance to check the connections/wires. Same for the horn... however keep in mind that 12V can register through a single strand of wire but that single strand won't pass enough...

It's very common for any boat fill (gas or diesel) to quickly overfill as they don't (newer ones usually do, though) automatically shutoff like a car. Add to the mix that diesel pumps flow faster than gas and filling up a small tank happens REALLY quickly. Slow down and listen for the "gurgle"...

Ummm... yes... that's what I said :) I've had a couple Sea Rays - they have fantastic schematics. It's always surprised me that GW doesn't.

Yeah, at first glance it looks like spaghetti... and maybe from second glance, too :)

I've never seen a Grady manual with a "true" wiring diagram. However you may see something like what Half listed above, depending on the model year. Short of that, I'm sure there's at least a list of the various accessories/ciurcuits and the wire coloring (probably even the gauge and location)...

You can get the dry weight and specs for you boat on GW's site. Motor weights can be found easily enough, too. 2 or 4 stroke? But you could figure roughly 500lbs each. Add for batteries at about 50lbs. Gas is about 6lbs and water is about 8 - but you can look up the exact weights if you...