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I believe so, yes. But I could be getting the nomenclature wrong or just plain remembering wrong! Take a look at Trident's website or Shields' (I think Dometic bought Shields?). There should be definitive info on their sites about it. If I'm right, though, you would only need the B1 for any...

I agree Seasick - heat is worse than cold. Definitely. Cold doesn't hurt rubber - heat weakens it over time. The rubber would of course be stiffer in the cold - but not to the point of it being a problem... besides, once the hose is in the boat it doesn't really move. Even a hose that is...

Can you post a few pics? That will help.

I don't know anything about NizPro, but has anyone ever seen a HP/Torque chart comparison for before/after? Just playing devil's advocate here, but if the power band increase is only at the higher RPM's, does it really help for anything other than top end speed?

Air circulation will help, too - I'm not sure if there's anything you can leave slightly open or not, but that would help

I have used bags/buckets, as well, with great results. But I think that what any of use up here in the Northeast - or anywhere in a less humid climate - probably isn't going to cut it down where you are. One thing I'd add, though (and maybe it won't make much of a difference) is to make sure...

That should work. Just get the bow up nice and high (jack/blocks) so it drains well. If you really wanted to, you could use some shrink wrap tape around the perimeter.

Some years, it seems the manuals are better (more informative) than others! Good luck.

I don't know where the fuses are in your boat but I can't imagine they're too hard to find - or maybe check in your owner's manual (or download it from GW's site). Knowing where the fuses are is an important thing to know. Check the fuse, first. But I have a feeling you're going to want to...

One way would be building the box as I mentioned. There are other ways - but that's a simple way. No need for brackets or epoxy (epoxy won't really help). If you make it out of PVC board you can also glue it together.

Man, what a shame. That's poor build quality - lot's of voids and such. That's definitely worse than I was imaging and, while not particularly "hard" to fix, it will be quite labor intensive. So... what do you "need" or "want" a new door to be? Do you want the rod holders? Would you be...

See this thread: https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/trolling-motor-install-with-windlass.35633/ There's no exact answer yet - but it sure is an awful good coincidence that you and the other guy asked the EXACT same question! Pool your resources and use one thread for both of you.

Looking at a picture of the boat on GW's site... fab a slightly raised platform in the area between the side nav light and cleat on one side of the boat. Make sure the platform doesn't interfere with the visibility of the nav light. Attach a quick disconnect plate to the platform so that you...

If you can post some more pics from various angles, that would help. Have you thought about just repairing the existing one and painting it? Got some pics of the condition?

Agree. It's likely too big for 1/2" - at least not without reinforcement. 3/4" should also be easy to find.

I think he's just talking about a simple, fold-down door at the transom? In that case, HDPE would be fine. Depending on how wide it is, it might "bow" easier against a wave, though, and come unhooked. However, a simple 1" L attached across to the top (or near, anyways) would solve that.

Bottom door swings down - you can see the hinge is attached to the door. Ralph, how much space do you have underneath the floor and is there anything in the way of where you would drill? Find a way to get eyes on it. That will tell you 100% if it's possible. Or, if you have the height based...

Is there clearance to put a bigger arm on it? If you didn't get it from the factory that way, you're overlooking the "previous owner" syndrome.

Just compare to another on/off switch

Ah, OK. That's definitely structural!