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Lucky13, assuming that you replaced standard 30* with heavy duty 0*, did the larger hole take up most of the slant from the 30* hole, and give you a good fit? Beautiful boat, what model?

The point of a swivel rod holder is to fight the fish from the rod holder. Regardless of the class of the outfit, rods are not designed to be used vertically. That puts all the stress on the top 1/3 of the rod, instead of feeding it into the power sections, in the bottom 2/3's.

Or just stand back there yourself, and look over the transom. Don't forget to subtract the weight of your oil tanks from the 200 pounds.

Bob has a '94 200 two stroke, so I doubt that he has a flushing port.

If you have zero degree swivels, and tuna, you will end up with bent butt rods shortly. Think about where you can comfortably sit, or stand, for long periods, cranking that rod in the holder, before you drill the hole.

Can you fish boat sides, as long as you don't touch shore, or do you have to stay on your side of the border.

So the motor is new to you. Did you test run before buying, did it pee? Did it pee before you did any of the repair? Did you do the water pump yourself? Dennis is right to question water flow on muffs. Are you using a muff that only feeds one side, or one that feeds both sides from the end? That...

My curiosity would first make me check the plug, with a test light or multi-meter, just to see if it is getting power.

PM sent.

last week-end, mounted 4 zero degree Lee's rod holders in the transom, 2 behind each seat.

Even if there were gaps, you can't go around the frame if you have an enclosure. You would have to figure a way to attach to the frame, above the awning track. Maybe drill holes throughthe frame, and use eye bolts, but I try to avoid drilling into my frame any more than absolutely necessary.

Do you have a picture? Fishmaster is showing the bag on a T Top, with a canvas cover lashed all the way around, and tubing going in both directions for the straps. Plenty of places to attach. On my Seafarer top, the frame is sealed to the underside of the hardtop, so you can’t go around the top...

Thanks, but that bag won't attach to my SF hard top, without completely re-doing all the straps.

Can you post a link the the 6 with zipper?

If you boat in salt water, both of those gauge hoses will be salt water, and if they leak, it will be all over your wiring and connections under there. I would extend, or replace, the drain line in your original post, so that it drains close to the deck.

OG's!

I think Grady referred to that as plasteak. There are past threads about renewing it. Pretty sure there is not any teak on a Seafarer in 1999. edit: I stand corrected, it is Duratrim.

I've heard for a long time that some get good results removing light scratches by polishing with toothpaste. I guess some is more abrasive than others, at the low end of the abrasive scale.

Longer is better, 15" will come out of the water very time the boat rocks side-to-side.

If it is hooked to the fuse block, it should read 12v at the plug.