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I realize you took the other gauges out. It doesn't make sense. What year are the gauges? Put a photo up. Usually there are single wire connectors and multi-pin connectors. About 9" of wires. Sure it's not tucked in somewhere?

Let's build up a little background on who you are and where are you located? So much of this depends on how you plan to use the boat and where you plan to use it. Put a fence around it. There are countless lists. What do you want to know?

Owners Manual may help. Given it's size wiring shouldn't be that complicated. There are wiring diagram for a 190 as well as color codes. https://gradywhite.blob.core.windows.net/media/22278/1987-owners.pdf

There is a lot of space under the tanks to hold water and leaking fuel. Won’t get to aft bilge unless you get the nose of the boat up. Whatever is under tanks will come out of limber hold. Sniff the rag. If you are leaking fuel the fuel compartment under the access ports will have a strong smell.

Just my opinion but I think it's foolish to "rewire" right now. You said fuel gauge, trim gauge, VHF radio and Depth Sounder were all wired to one switch. Get a voltmeter. Easier to troubleshoot when multiple things are wrong. It could be a bad switch or a corroded connector. What was the last...

Leaking fuel tanks are very hard to diagnose in place. They corrode and leak on the bottom of the tank where you can't see anything. The only way to inspect and test is to take the tank out and at that point you may as well replace it. I tried using an automotive smoke tester but didn't find any...

You could disconnect the Garmin GPS to see. Also look on the Lorance device list to see if you can see the GPS device. NEMA stuff is very simple and compatible across the brands. Try a hard power down before you panic. Maybe even a factory reset on Lorance. I had to do this to my Fusion...

Do you have anything else on the NMEA 2000 buss? Maybe a GPS puck?

I know with my Yamaha F150's and Garmin 8612 chartplotter the engine page won't see the motors unless the key switch is on. I would take the NMEA 2000 connectors apart and put them back together - tighten the cable nuts. Check both terminators too. Sometimes the computers lock up and need a...

From what I understand the fuel sending unit is interfaced to the CL7. Correct me if I'm wrong. On my boat the fuel gauge will blink when you are part way thru the last bar. With 8 bars on the gauge that means you are all the way down on the sending unit float. It knows where 1/8 of a tank is...

https://spectrumcolor.com/collections/patch-paste-kit

Those are my thru bolts not Marcus's! I have six per side and can probably get to all of them from inside the boat.

I have older gauges that connect to the WEMA sending units in the tank. 8 bars will change with fuel level. The gauge debounces the sending unit with a several second delay. The bars are solid until you get to the last bar where it will start to blink. At this point you are very low on fuel and...

I hope your doctor cleaned you up as well as my wiring! This was still work in progress. The pump wiring in the lower part of the picture has been cleaned up. Because I have so many problems with the Rule baitwell pumps I'm using reusable ty-wraps. I have pumps on board and can change one out...

I checked for thru bolting. YES they are. Midship and forward by the anchor locker were. I'll assume they all are but some my be difficult or impossible to get to. I was able to get my hand on these up in the tow rail.

Yes. Have your mechanic check it.

Nope! Take something off that masks the gelcoat. A nav light, cockpit light, even the dome light at the helm. Look at the color difference. GW has a little brown tint in it. This bleaches out. You are probably better off with a plain white gelcoat. Do some color testing first. Wet sand...

There is an automotive style centrifugal pump on the engine. No impeller to replace. These pumps usually leak at the bearing and should be fine. Assuming you got the thermostat in correctly and gasket is good you should have to do anything here either. Just make sure it has water and antifreeze...

You have a sandy bottom there. I would have the mechanic back flush the saltwater side of the heat exchanger. Some heat exchanges can be opened up and "rod-ed" out. They should be cleaned periodically anyway - they load up on deposits and need to be acid cleaned. Change the raw water pump...

Spectrum sells color matched GW repair kits base on your model year. Process is easy but your gelcoat has sunbleached and is very white compared to the original. You can go with white and get a brown tint and try to match yourself. https://spectrumcolor.com/