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8 people on any 19' boat (or even 24' boat for that matter) gets tight. As long as you're all friendly with each other and don't mind practically sitting on someone's lap, though, it's doable. Especially if it's only once in a while where you'll have that many.

Are you talking about the copper looking like the Statue of Liberty? That's called "verdigris" and it's copper's natural way of protecting itself and it doesn't pose any issues. To an extent, anyways... I think if it gets severely oxidized, then it may start to weaken the tubing. But a slight...

Lucky, this is a super easy install - I can't tell you how many times I've done this myself or the guys at my shop. What you'll want to do is measure the width UNDERNEATH to make sure you have enough clearance. This will also give you a chance to double check that there's nothing in the way...

I don't see why that can't be adapted to fit? Correct me if I'm wrong, but your "seat" consists of: Chair... slider... spider... pole... base. I can see that fitting between the spider and the slider. Whether it "fits right in" with the existing holes, I'm not sure. But it's not a big deal...

You're on the right track - easy peasy. "Paint" the core with epoxy for extra protection. The plywood will soak up the resin quickly - keep doing it till it's not soaking in so fast (stays shiny). Also, "ease" the cut edge of the gelcoat - it's not "required" to do that - just "best practice".

Per the numbers, you're fine. But trailering really isn't about the ability to pull the load... it's about the ability to stop it and possibly do an emergency swerve. Try this... start slow and easy and work your way up to get a good feel of how the truck handles things... find a nie stretch...

Still need that engine info... but can we assume it's a new engine? The best thing to do would be to have the engine computer scanned since there will be a reason it entered into Guardian mode in the history. For example, in your scenario (and this would, really, be the best case), the reason...

Seasick brings up a good point about the moisture. First, there will always be "some" moisture. Was the test done soon after hauling the boat? Where was the moisture? As noted, what does the bang cap look like? Anyone can wield a moisture meter - but that doesn't mean the info they provide...

From what you wrote it sounds like you had a dead battery, but then used that battery in conjunction with the good one? That's not a good way to do things. How long did you run it? But, can you tell us about your engine? The boat info isn't really important here.

Try this thread - there's some good info in there: https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/wiper-refills-for-04-gulfstream.32891/

I've done the "hit the brakes" thing many times - nothing wrong with that. I've gone a lot faster than "very slowly", too! Probably 15+ MPH.

Probably not a bad idea given where prices are. If I remember correctly, it was Perko that came out with that insert. I'm sure there are others available, though. But try googling for Perko.

My boat is similar, with 250HP... but it's a 2-stroke. But for a "guide"... I'm at 10 - 13 GPH running in the mid to upper 20-mph range. At 3,700/3,800 RPM I'm hovering in the upper 9gph to low 10gph range. But... what about my question? :)

Did the Yamaha come with a Yamaha multi-function gauge? That may already be equipped with that function.

Yup - the power trim system is old tech and doesn't need anything special. ATF is just fine. Dex II or III is plenty - if you can find it. Meaning, you don't need to spend the money on a higher Dex number... but it won't hurt, either.

There are many things I enjoy doing on and around boats... and then there are things were I am HAPPY to put bread on someone else's table! I also have a younger brother and a helpful son....

Nothin' wrong with askin'!

I have not specifically done that, but I would imagine that there would be something at HD or Lowes that could do the job. Measure the size of your opening. I would put it in with a couple small dabs of silicone instead of epoxy so it's not as permanent.

To add more on the strength issue - even though it's been said, it deserves repeating... the strength from glass/wood/glass is that the core (wood/foam/whatever) SEPARATES the two layers of glass. The core, itself, is not really the strength - it's the fact that the two layers of glass or...