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Many folks don't know where the release valve is located and even fewer use it. Only when the trim pump fails with the motor up does anyone have a need to manually lower the motor. The valve can be used to speed up the bleeding process. If you find out what your problem is/was, let us know.

What type of motors? Outboards? If so, do you leave them down when docked? Do you have shore power connected?

There are several options on the web if you search. I did a quick one and found this product...

Regarding the pressure release valve; They are often rarely used and at least on Yamis tend to freeze in place and can be very difficult to turn. Often when you finally get them to turn, you may have damaged the seals so my suggestion is that if you can't turn the valve with reasonable torque...

A galvanic isolator is a very good solution to reduce stray currents. They do go bad once in a while so checking should be part of your annual routine maintenance. Here is an article from Boating Magazine that is very helpful...

In my case I can see an oil slick on the water after raising the motor. My leak is some sort of high pressure leak. Do you see an oil slick. If you have a leak, your will need to replace fluid in the reservoir. You may not have a leak to the atmosphere but rather leaky check valve in the pump...

With 20+ years on my motor, I might give that a try. I have had a mysterious small leak for several seasons and I can't figure out where it comes from.

You don't need to have the power on to potentially (pardon the pun) have galvanic action. Having shore power chord connected even with the breaker off at the dock can still contribute to ground currents. More often than not at my club, it is stray currents at the docks that are the major...

What do I do with my exploded head!

I use regular ATF but not the manufacturer specific versions like ATF4

How did you ever think to try that?

There are different levels of treatment prior to applying anti-fouling paint. Here is a description of a Pettit product. There are other options also. https://www.pettitpaint.com/media/3372/metal-primer-1.pdf

Yup, my head exploded. The theory with the glass and resin is that the resin seals the wood from moisture. Epoxy resin when hardened is very brittle. It's the fiberglass cloth that gives it strength and rigidity. If you coat a piece of plywood with resin only and subject it to stress, micro to...

I though some more about this topic and have a ideas. For large hulls, you may need to motor the hull till it hits the bow top. In addition if the ramp is steep, you may need to keep the motor in gear until you tighten the winch cable/strap. This is a two person operation. Don't leave the helm...

Looks good. One comment: You should use more staples very close to each other.

I have a 2001 and the VHF radio is mounted at the bottom of the helm. I have a remote speaker plugged into it and the speaker stores in the electronics box. In the electronics I have 2 5 inch displays but I suspect 7 inchers would fit.

If the boat is not very large, I would try not winching the bow eye tight to the bow stop when the boat is on the ramp. Pull the boat out and when on flat ground, tighten the winch until the bow is seated correctly. The boat should be able to slide on the bunks a bit. The hull will not sit in...

I can't say. You need to open up that area and see if and how deep the core is damaged. If a few inches, seacast may be acceptable assuming the transom is structurally sound. You also may want to drill a few holes in various spots from the inside of the transom to examine the coring. Patching...

You need to state that in BOLD " GLASS BETWEEN SHEETS" it is critical to making a strong bond.

I used BoatUS, It was simple.