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Good. Easy peasy. It's a standard bow eye available all over. If you want to double check, though, just measure the C-C and OD of the "bolts". Or... just take it with you and walk into your local place - they'll likely have it in stock. It's not a "Grady" thing so go anywhere.

What type of bow eye is it? Integrated with a bow cleat? One or two thru-bolts? If it's a stand a lone eye, you should be able to source that at pretty much any marine store as it will be a standard thing.

Gotcha - good plan!

If, by "filter", you're referring to the carbon canister filter... no, that is not it. It is much larger. follow the vent line from there (or from the tank) and you'll find it.

Don't take offense - none intended - but, enviro-friendly cleaner? You're putting two pumps back in to replace one? I assume one will be a high water pump? You mentioned a 3-way switch... that WOULD be a good idea for the main pump, but not needed for the emergency pump. Mount the switch for...

Either way will work. It just needs constant power (still use a fuse).

See my posts :)

As we discussed above, you have the newer style "EPA" system that, while the guy at the EPA sitting behind desk thinks it makes everything better... the rest of KNOW it does not! If you haven't already, be sure to read through the entire thread. I'm not sure if we talked about this, but...

How old is "old"? Are they dry or cracked?

A gas tank hatch is one of the easiest things to re-core. But I don't know of any pedestal mounts that are thinner than 3/8" - 3/8" is considered "flush mount". The only way around that is to do as Fish said and countersink it as you rebuild the hatch - also relatively easy. Just double check...

Trailers with the extended support can actually be made with quite a high GVWR - easily twice what Bobby needs. All they really do is move the axles further back. The weight is still being carried by the crossmembers at the proper ratio. But, sure, an owner could try and be as "creative" as...

Generally speaking, yes. But there are trailer manufacturers that build their trailers that way - as long as the trailer is designed as such (which would mean the weight is equal on both axles) it's totally fine. I've owned some like that and know of plenty of friends/family members/customers...

Bobby, your best bet is probably to just look around at local places that offer trailers. If there's an issue with the trailer, you'll want to be able to get efficient help. I'm also going to make an assumption that you're not going to be setting up the trailer yourself? A good shop can do...

If you've talked directly with your local dealer and they couldn't help, try another one. Try Atlantic Marine. I've dealt with their service department a few times and they were always very helpful. You should be able to just call them and tell them your boat model/year - they can do the rest.

Oh, I gotcha, now... you are saying "I like the auto wind up feature", not "it's similar to the Auto Wind Up". I originally thought you were saying that "auto wind up" was another brand name. I think the nylon bolt will be harder to shear than we think - but I also think it's totally doable...

The Swi-Tec one apparently has a 10m extension available. But what is the auto windup? Every search I do for that comes back for winches.

Are you referring the ones at the corners or the one along the top of the transom (under the engine)?

FYI, that's what an "angle" is (abbreviated terminology). Otherwise, read my first sentence again :)

Call or go to your local dealer - they can sell it to you by the foot. Or by any plastic or FRP angle that you want from just about anywhere. Really, just about ANYTHING can work - it's just a simple cover. Paint to match.

I wouldn't want to say definitively, but typically, "short" areas of glass (like you're referencing) don't need coring (not always, but more often than not, anywyas). For the fwd "wall" of the well, just take off one of the boots around a hyd line and check? Do you have an inspection port (or...