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The best place for "one stop shopping", which is what it sounds like you're looking for, is going to be a dealer. They'll do all the legwork and figure out what you need. You can save a few bucks on parts by ordering online, but then it's up to you to check what size/configurations you need...

That's much fancier than I was thinking! I was thinking of a wedge/adapater between the angle of the deck and the trolling motor mount. A couple pieces of PVC board glued together and then properly shaped should do it. But what that guy did is pretty nice!

If you're just asking about cutting a hole in the pulpit, which it sounds like you are... pretty basic and straight forward. Cut the hole, reinforce if needed inside the cavity (I'm assuming the pupit is cored otherwise you probably wouldnt be asking about this), seal it up with epoxy, go...

As noted, it was/is the V8 Yamaha's (and maybe some others, but those for sure) that should have AF pumped through them. You do not need to worry about AF.

Maybe it would be helpful to tell us what kind of engine you have? Some OB's, it's a good idea to do this... most it's not... with sterndrives and inboards it's absolutely necessary.

OK, so... on the assumption (for now), that jacking the trailer up high enough will allow you to "prove" that the drain pathway is clear, you can dump a half gallon of non-tox AF in that hole and then watch/verify that it comes out into the main bilge... or, really, just look to see that it...

It wouldn't make sense for there to be a hose attached from that thru-hull fitting (drain fitting) in the floor, directly to the PVC drain pipe that runs under the fuel tank. If there was a hose, that would mean there was no way for standing water that got in the underfloor cabin compartment to...

Huh? Does this mean you already jacked the bow up really high to check for drainage? FYI, in case you didn't realize it, you won't be able to run the snake from the cabin... that's just a simple hole that lets water drop into the bilge. I'm surprised there's no access plate in the floor. My...

Adding on... the cabin bilge in many Grady's are actually lower than the aft (main) bilge. So it's not uncommon for a certain amount of water to stay in the cabin bilge when the boat is in the water or relatively level on the trailer. That could explain the water you siphoned out. Add a...

A windlass install is basically the same from one Grady model to another. Close enough as makes no difference, anyways. If you're handy, you would easily be able to transfer information from someone else's post to your situation. Search the forums - there's been enough threads on this where...

I do not know what kind of pump you have or how it's mounted, but... First, take a look at how it's mounted. I'm not saying this is the issue, but I have often pumps (all different kinds) mounted direct to a floor space where the floor ends up acting as an amplifier. Meaning, this issue...

Nice one! Hmmmm....

Try places like Barbour Plastic or Taco Metals. While you may not find the exact thing, it really doesn't matter. Remove a section and measure the profile of the deck to hull joint and then go shopping for something that you like.

I've run (and owned) plenty of boats with a "slant back" curtain. I really enjoy having them (or a second bimini to make the whole thing "squared off") since it makes the more of (or the entire) cockpit usable in foul weather. Sure, you can absolutely see out of them... but not a with a window...

Note that I also mentioned "pumping" it in. A $10 hand pump would do it. Heck, shove a small OD hose into it and then just pour AF into the hose using a funnel. Or a scrap section of garden hose that you screw onto it and pour the AF in that way. Just gotta do a little "thinking" is all.

Are you referring to me or to the the guy that always says "you should have seen the one that got away"?

For the salt water washdown you could get some extra piece of mind by pumping/pouring about a half gallon of AF through the spigot - any tiny bit of water that might still be left will be diluted by the AF to a point awful close to it's rated burst point - certainly not a problem for NY. I'm...

If you're going through a windlass, you shouldn't have a thimble. Do you mean the chain to rope splice? A chain to rope splice is pretty straight forward - you could make whatever you want, yourself. I've done more than I can count. Make 3 tucks, then thin by a third and make two more tucks...

The reason there is an 18" threaded rod is because it connects to the bow eye and enables the cleat to also be used as a lifting point. It just makes it a little easier to lift the boat than to lift it from the bow eye, is all. If it's in the way, you can remove the cleat and just add a backer...

Stringers are VERY integral to the strength of the boat. You should have a stringer on either side of the "coffin" area (basically, MAKING the coffin) and there would be another set about halfway between that one and the hull side. The fiberglass is the actual "strength", however if the wood...