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i would agree with above waterline, but i get antsy with below waterline stuff.

hard to tell, but if those elbows are plastic i would replace with bronze.

not for nuttin', but in the old days we cobbled together a 2x4 frame and pulled a cheap tarp over the boat to keep leaves and snow out. at some point, it became necessary to hermetically seal up your boat for the off season.

for a short cut, get a multimeter and see if you get power on the other side of the switch when flipped on . do the breaker also. i can't remember the circuit so you may have to check continuity first (battery off). good luck, ron

https://www.nautiluxcanvas.com/ i'm not sure if darren does coamings (i thought he did). canvas work is outrageous. ron

i think that you will definitely want to use an ablative. the micron being used is durable but does it's job. in 2017 i had the hull blasted and fully repainted (bad original job, antifoul was peeling off the primer in sheets). primer, 2 coats blue and 2 coats black. i repaint the black every...

can't help directly, but the 330 gets 1.0 to 1.1 consistently at cruise (3800 @ 28mph) with 4 blades depending on fuel level. micron bottom paint semi ablative. not much different than the yamaha pb and i have all the factory options on it. not sure if it would be anything noticeable for...

just did a quick search on marine led rope lights and a bunch showed up. give it a shot. good luck, ron

denatured alcohol then Plexus on the isinglass. a good soap then starbrite vinylbrite on the exposed vinyl (3m vinyl cleaner/protector on the enclosed helm vinyl.) ron

can't help other than a charter capt i know did a repower couple years ago. 350's(?). he's happy.

nothing to add other than it is one of the worst engineering i have seen. especially on a boat. those vents should be aluminum frames and actually split in two so you could run with a smaller top piece open. and they used to have 2 of the T holders in the past on each vent. i know GW isn't...

thrusters are noisy. but i do know that sidepower did put out a prop conversion kit for some of their older thrusters. id your model and look at the mfg sites. good luck, ron

nope. just rust on the motor housing. poor design. probably should have been high impact plastic housings.

to be clear, not corrosion. just good ole american rust. ron

i can tell you that i clean, prime and paint mine every year.

gift of the magi. just remember they aren't making any new waterfront property. they will be making new boats. good luck, ron

they have a rule for everything. :p

again, not sure but i think there is a strict requirement about where the breaker needs to be in relation to the inlet. ron

not 100% sure, but i think the breaker is double pole. you should be able to find the proper replacement. call GW customer service and they should be able to tell you what is there. and the one that comes up when i click your link is a DC breaker. good luck, ron

there's a push button breaker with the battery switches (pretty sure float switch). also the breaker at the top of the switch. does it run if you lift the float? panel breakers fail, so do switches (and switch lights). good luck.