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that's a bear. it does come out. look in all the easier places first. good luck, ron

could be in the space behind the instrument panel; under the electronics pod well; or under the electronics pod "deck" (i stuck my gsd22 up under there). also, i put my heading sensor in the locker in the cabin (you have to look up to see it). you should have something in the helm portside...

that's the point. the puck is an add-on now. in everwhom's installation, is the signal picked up by the radio box unit or the dash unit (think wifi in your home)? like i said, i'll just run the n2k backbone up to the radio box and see if i need to put in the hardtop puck. thx all, ron

talking about gps fix, not depth. thx, ron

channel markers. sand bars. etc, etc. the radio will have an internal receiver and i will be well ok with a 100 foot error for a DSC emergency, not so much for navigation. thx, ron

thx. if the internal is close to 100% then no need to spend the extra hundred gallons of gas (my conversion benchmark) and drill holes. if i don't get real life feedback before install, i'll probably just run an N2K backbone up to the radio box and see how the internal functions. that would...

thx. new boat, new setup. going into the helm station. radio will go into the radio box.

i'll be outfitting electronics in the spring. i was wondering how the newer GPSMAPs (Garmin only) with internal receivers operate under a hardtop and within a helm area electronics enclosure (going into a Marlin). are they sensitive enough to get the 9 foot fix range? (my old one with a 19X...

speaking out of school here, but i seem to remember Grady offering "Grady Drive" on some models? same setup as the Gulfstream.

can't be positive, but it looked like mine (2009) was constructed by GW. good luck, ron

yes, a 9'3" beam. stable at drift or anchor (my propensity). i was always fine under power, but i match speed to sea conditions and i rarely exceed 30 mph. not like the Haulover videos I've seen :eek:

can't help on the comparison to the 258 (especially since i'm not familiar with that model). but, i did a lot of comparisons when we bought our gulfstream in 2002. all other brands had to go to a 25' for parity. even the 265 Express was marginally "larger" save for the cabin. they did...

before you go nuts, might want to pop the valance and see what's what.

hard to tell from pic, but is the area saturated? if not, could be from condensation.

other than vacuflush, you might look into freshwater draw Jabsco units. that would help with the odor reduction and pretty much stay with the same footprint. there are several different models. good luck, ron

price sheet i go was spot on to the website numbers for msrp and options. the actual invoice number is what it is. not like KBB or Edmunds which i believe have a better fix on the invoices for autos. you have to eyeball the freight and prep to judge it's reasonableness. but there is enough...

get to https://seedealercost.com/boats and price out. if you are in business you'll know what's a reasonable price point. if it's an order, it probably won't be as good as something already sitting on floor plan. if they're good on a trade-in they may want higher margin on the new sale...

not sure if it changed, but this is what GW recommended. they use the commercial version but GE silicone II was the retail one. good luck, ron

if it's the indicator with 2 buttons on top and 2 on bottom, just go thru the reset process. that should clear it up unless the senders are actually bad. good luck, ron

i can't attest to 2002, but my year had access to the pump via the pie plate at the transom. long arms required. good luck, ron