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i had an '02 with twin f200's. i would suggest twins because it is a very heavy boat and close quarter maneuvering is straight forward with the twins. also recommend you get a SeaV2 hulll; not sure when it changed. i felt it handled all types of seas that i would go out in (as long as you...

if the contract says excluded, forget the broker and hand it over to the police. stolen goods.

it's the new f200's that would be great. they are fairly light, close to a 2 stroke. single and twin bracket is different. stick with twins and repower in the future when needed. good luck, ron

your vent line is either blocked or has a belly in it. same thing happened to my brand new '02. the weight of the new 4 strokes resulted in a fuel tank reconfiguration, but the parts assemblers were probably still cutting to the old config. i had a foot or so of excess vent hose. once the...

it's a punk. i think it started in wash state. :mrgreen: can't see clearly, but it looks like the split rings are holding pins in the xducer. at a min, i would clean it up to see what you are dealing with. good luck, ron

pretty sure it was just the liner changes. you can call GW for the specifics. it is a heavy 23. if you can get the new f200's it would be great. my '02 had the original f200's. other than the weight, they were great. spent most of the time at 3/4 throttle running 2.5 mpg or better. good...

if you are talking about the bitter end, see above. if you mean while you are at anchor (i see that you note a windlass on your boat), then yes, the rode should be cleated off to remove the load from the windlass. you should tie off to one of your bow cleats in a normal fashion, possibly...

2009. m260 in the bilge starboard side between stringer and bulkhead. attached to gsd 22. works fine for me. good luck, ron

don't know, but based on the actual results i have gotten over two boats versus the performance bulletins, you probably would be close to this. http://www.gradywhite.com/330/performance_data/1/F300T also, the redesign in 2008 added something like 1k lbs. so you may be better. good luck, ron

moving weight around would have an effect, i couldn't say good or bad. a quick call or email to GW might give you some technical insight. at any rate, make sure you use the correct wire gauge when/if you do. also, any other stored items in the stern would have an impact (box of sinkers...

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls this may be one of the articles you looked at. don't know who this is. based on this, if you think you need a back plate inside the hull, i'd would wonder why you wouldn't need one on the outside. the flange nut is generally the same...

i'm not sure i would want a compressible back plate on a below the waterline thruhull; could allow it to become loose. back plates are usually used to distribute stress (eg cleats, stanchions, motor mounts, etc). good luck , ron.

the thru hulls don't have a "backing plate". the nut that holds them on should have an oversized flange attached to it.

i have not purchased anything there, but he seems to be quite competitive (i have priced). i've also used gps store and gpscity. all of my current elects were purchased from consumers marine, which is now folded directly into overtons. haven't priced anything since it went under overtons...

i've used this on a sailboat and a small power boat. worked great. http://www.marinetechproducts.com/pages/ezsteerhome someone at the marina put this on a power boat and he loves it http://www.raymarine.com/view/?id=733 good luck, ron

i would also compare access to systems and fuel tanks. at that age, you may be looking at tanks sooner rather than latter. the GW is a screw out hatch. i can't remember if the AS is glassed in. When we were originally looking, i made sure any brand that made it to the finals had easy access...

why not an inhull? i had a p79 in mine that worked fine. with the newer sounder, an m260 would probably be great. no holes and no trailer to worry about. good luck, ron

can't add much more to what has been said, but you should also factor in the cost of salvage/removal when it sinks. you will most likely be held responsible and if you did not inform the insurance company regarding the extent of the original damage, they may deny a claim. good luck, ron

great boat. i personally would not buy another engine that did not have electronic controls. it's night & day and the rigging is only concerned with very flexible network wires. be careful on your first outing if you do it. i did a hole shot out of the lift well. the controls are awesome...

you don't usually buy parts for that. a good canvas guy would do a re-upholstery. i've seen a number of them done around me and they look great. the only thing not done is the GW embossed panel. it could be purchased from the GW fabricator but most people bypass it. good luck, ron