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are you running the rode thru the chocks before cleating it off? that said, i also did not like the sides of the thru pulipit anchor hawsepipe. i bought a chafe-guard with a velcro seem that i put on after setting the anchor. good luck, ron http://www.westmarine.com/taylor-made-- ... 51_003_515

something like this. there are a few different ones. http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product ... 141&r=view http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product ... 485&r=view soem have a sheave that allows it to travel. i was too wide so i made my own. good luck, ron

you should verify with GW. my genset has a pancake pickup. specific instructions from GW and FP are that the genset seacock should not be open while running at speed if the genset is off. the genset can, however, be run at any speed. the type of pickup on your genset might have an issue at...

I think he means the hole in the bottom of pic. Hard to tell if there is a ring around that hole indicating something was there. If not, some just drilled it thru. If there is a faded ring, could be part of the motor rigging. Steering hydro line, fuel, etc. Or maybe a cockpit light. God...

I think Steve (gulfcart) did it on his 330. The refrigeration unit on mine is behind the port mid berth bulkhead. Good luck, Ron

GW may be able to give a specific answer to you. an educated guess would be that the bulk of the weight will be behind the helm area. fuel, engines and a heavy transom. go to a yard and watch when they lift large outboards, the forks rarely get anywhere close to the bows. good luck, ron

can't really see the pic. if you are talking about a "full" length cradle with bunks on either side of the keel, you should be fine (assuming integrity of the stand). since they also put in jack stands, should have added comfort. my yard just uses the cradle and it is solid support. good...

I've said it many times. GW is not perfect, but if you really go thru your boat, you will see what you pay for. good luck, ron

There might be one or two more available. Get your head in the bilge and look around (or if you have a newer boat, the manual would have the rigging tube layout in the appendices). If not, I would use the existing one, but prefer a less utilized one. Good luck, Ron

If you are talking about the PVC tubes throughout the boat, that's what they are there for. I would pick one that is fairly clear and does not contain a lot of electrical cables. If you are talking about the engine rigging tube, see above. Good luck, Ron

You could probably get a direct match from a local dealer. Last time I bought one it was about $25. If they are in stock, might be less. Good luck, Ron

at 1 mpg trust me, it feels like being hung, drawn and quartered when taking on 350 gallons. :mrgreen:

i get 1 to 1.1 at cruise. but i'm running f350's and 4 blades. i have found that the real world tracks fairly well with the performance bulletins on this and our prior 232. ron

That's a GW factory installation. Before the hull is laid up, a plug is set where the thruster goes. Then the hull is laid up around the plug. After the hull is pulled out it could basically be splashed and float. When they do the install of the thruster, they add a regular tunnel (under the...

there was a service bulletin on the pa unit. you might want to look on the teleflex site to see if it involves your. they may help out. good luck, ron

You should be able to see that from the manual. If you don't have one go to the GW site and pull it down. If this was done by a prior owner, could be anything. Also, they could be blank. All of the switches are pre wired, but they may not be attached to any load. I had a couple on both...

look closely at the breaker. it might also be stamped on the top of the push button. it has to be there somewhere or the riggers wouldn't know what to put in the circuit. good luck, ron

there has to be some kind of marking. did you pull out the breaker and look at all sides? might just be a couple letters like "5a". mine is 2009 but there were complete markings, including mfg. good luck, ron

they actually use an oem product. it's GE series 1600 or 1700 or something like that. they said the silicone II is the retail type version. ron

agree, GW is color matched. the after market product is GE silicone II almond (i already called GW on that one). i use starbrite deck cleaner, which cleans the caulking nicely. orange blast on others, which also cleans nicely. i would be sparing with anything caustic. good luck, ron