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The OPs vessel is a 208, single engine, two batteries. No need to over engineer the battery configuration. I run on one battery only and keep the second as backup. On trips back to the dock ( 15 minutes or more), I may select switch position BOTH to top off the second battery and I try to...

I don't have Command Link gauges but looking at a set up video, it seems that backlighting is either on or off. You can set the light brightness. Verify that you have the digital command link gauges 6Y8 series. I referred to the rigging guide and do not see any wire connections mentioned for...

Two 24s will fit in the starboard locker assuming that the trim tab pump, if you have tabs; was not installed in that locker. On newer 208s the pump is usually located in the cabin, starboard size.

On my hull, the backlight feed is off of the NAV switch. It is a blue wire and there are two of them crimped to the same female spade connector. One goes to the compass and one to the gauges. I don't any reason why you couldn't splice off of the compass. That said, If not too bad of a job, see...

hmmmm. That Wise seat looks every much like the OEM seats on my 2001 208 seats and seems to be the same width ( the critical factor for that hull and seat spacing)

The gunnels on the 208 are not very low and for youngsters, the railing may not be necessary. A railing might be helpful as something to hold on to though. That said, a railing that runs from aft to the forward railing would be a terrible tripping hazard when boarding or unhoarding. It might...

Since the sealant will most likely be under the switch flange and therefore blocked from the daylight, UV resistance is not a major issue. This project reminds me of a video I saw recently in which some fittings were bedded in sealant/adhesive and the goal was to not have a lot (or any) squeeze...

I wouldn't use 4200 (or 5200). You don't need an adhesive , just a sealant like Life Caulk. Silicon would probably be fine also, Choose a bathroom or Marine type that have mildew blockers.

I assume you have a 4 stroke motor to even think about relocation one battery. Those batteries weigh about 45 pounds I think. I don't know how much difference relocating one battery will make. To estimate how the boat will change, out find an 90 pound person and have them sit on the port...

It is difficult to say is something is amiss without knowing the standing voltages of the batteries. That is the voltage measured at the battery terminals with a meter and all loads switched off. Normally, if they are the same for bank 1 and bank 2, I would expect the voltage reported by the...

Well if google says so, that it must be true:) Actually, I have always thought that the 2005, 2006 were the more problematic model years. It's really hard to know for sure since I can't get actual statistics documenting the number of repairs.

I hope the issue clears up. I am not sure what would beat up that plug so much more than the others with the exception perhaps of detonation. If the compression in that cylinder is still good that is a good thing. Let's see how the test run goes. Fingers crossed.

That plug looks like crap. Do all of the plugs have the same erosion of the electrodes?

Does each motor use a different starting battery? I think they would have to. Assuming the batteries are in good shape AND charged, I would expect similar charging voltages ( idle speed voltages might be different a bit) Are the voltages different by the same amount after the motors warm up...

Heating the hose is one method but that may not be practical. It also may cause damage and burning of the hose. Other than that, the best approach is to slice the hose lengthwise from the hull side end inward and peel the hose off. You will need to replace the hose most likely but you should...

Hard to find new and very expensive. Used are out there For example https://marineparts.plus/item/parts/tilt-trim-units-and-relays/yamaha-ox66-225hp-outboard-tilt-trim-unit-61a-25/ It's a crap shoot though. You don't know exactly what you are buying If your is just leaking, there is a company...

A few questions: What model motor is on the boat? What prop? Is the skeg straight? What hole is the motor mounted in? Mechanical or hydraulic steering? Can you get to WOT and if so what are the revs? Please verify that the hulls lists as opposed to turns to starboard. My first thought is that...

As mentioned by Dennis G01, no stainless below the water line.

It is very difficult to remove all rotted coring without opening up the transom. It is also difficult to get the pourable compound to spread into all the nooks and crannies. Coosa would be my choice.

I thought that the neutral switch on the motor was there to protect the motor when shifting from forward to reverse and the other way around. Yes it does cause cylinders to drop out but the reason is to limit torque during F-R and R-F shifts. I guess it is possible that if that switch is bad...