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No. Otherwise, how would water get to the float?

You said "SS tabs" which made it sound like they were bare. Maybe you need to change the type of paint you're using?

Sounds like the float is either gunked up to where it won't float on it's own or has somehow lost it's ability to float all together. Take it apart and see what's what.

Paint 'em.

I originally started with Yamalube because it was a safe bet, but then switched to synthetic for less smoke. I use Evinrude's XD100 full synthetic, now. It runs about $45/$50 per gallon.

I use the Battery Tender 5W one - it's not big, but it's enough to work as a maintainer. You'll be coming back in with fully charged batteries, I assume, because you were just running the engine. So you likely don't need a "charger". On the other hand, if you're using the boat at least every...

After freeing it up (PB Blaster, silicone spray, etc - and/or adding the zerk), be sure to exercise the seacock once a month to keep it in good shape. Use to some leverage to get it to start moving - some handles have a square that a socket wrench can be inserted - you can also slip a pipe over...

OK, I'm not following what you're saying. But I can't think that it can be anything other than what I mentioned.

Clark... missing gasket/washer, dirt debris or a cracked fitting.

But WHERE on the back of the boat? Is it the floor drain? Is it a motor well drain? Knowing the model of boat could help, but a better description or picture (as noted) would help. We're not there to see what you see. If it's a floor drain, then yes, often there is some type of scupper...

Hmmm. I wonder the difference is, then. I also use Startron (and usually more than recommended). But the last time I pulled my O2 sensor and draw tube out, they were clean. I even took the draw tube with me to the Yamaha dealer when I picked up a new gasket and the service manager took one...

I can relate.....

Hmmm... that makes me think more ;) Does your boat have an inner liner? Is that covering up the access? It's possible, then, that an access hole would have to be drilled.

It sounds like you don't have eyes on the area under the stanchion base (foot) of the bow rail. Without eyes on it, don't assume - water can travel quite a distance. Access... could be something in the area that you have to remove... could be a cap that you pop off... could be carpet that you...

Bleach.

Oh, you don't need to spend the extra money on epoxy, either, if you don't want to. Polyester will work just as well for this application at a much lower cost.

That's EXACTLY what epoxy gives you. If you want, you can even tint the epoxy.

Yes.

So the thought is to put the starboard on the outside? I wouldn't bother. Actually, you run the chance of water getting between the wood and SB. Honestly, it would be a waste of money. Marine ply is better than exterior grade PT ply. Saturate the edges and outside with epoxy. The outside...

Oh, if that's all it is, just fill it with unthickened epoxy. If you can get a drill to the backside, put a large drill bit in and chamfer the hole - do the same to the outside. This will create an hour glass shape to "lock" it in and also give more surface (and a clean surface since it was...