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I got excited watching you open the wrap!

Boy did I read the first post incorrectly! One engine starts regardless of whether the kill tab is in or not. Is that correct? In that case there may be an ignition relay on the motor that starts regardless of the kill switch that is stuck on. I will see if I have the wiring diagram for that...

Unusual indeed. A bad ECM and a bad harness? I wonder what could have caused that. At least it's fixed. Have fun!

You can't tell by looking at it right now. The crack may or may not cause moisture to get in. Depending on where you keep your boat, the crack may be stable or may end up with more damage due to freeze thaw cycles. Unless you use a SWR meter, you can't tell is the signal has degraded either...

I don't think it is the kill switch per se. I need to look at the wiring diagrams but I suspect it is a connection issue somewhere past the kill switch Does the motor crank and not start or does it do nothing when you turn the ignition switch. If the later, does the tach for that motor operate...

Rubber has carbon in it and that in conjunction with salt water ( or just moisture) can lead to corroding of the aluminum. There are better option for the spacers.

Those cushions were not meant to be frequently removed and reinstalled. I am not sure if your seat backs are bolsters ot full cushions but if bolster type they are installed just like the side (deck) bolsters. There are lots of posting about bolsters but in general, they are hung on brackets...

I believe that that year hull is rated for 300HP.

I m not a fan of fenders hanging off of railings. If for whatever reason that ball gets hung up at the slip, a lot of force might be put on the rail. You could add a loop of line from the bow cleat to the mid cleat and hang the ball from that line. All the forces would be on the cleats

Seats look nice but that doesn't look like a 208 Adventure hull. The OP said his boat was a 208 and I assumed an Adventure. The seats are a lot closer in the Adventure which is a walk around.

I would like to see pics and know if the seats can be rotated 180 degrees. Note that the original can only rotate in one direction. In other words, they can't be spun around but they can be turned one way to face backwards. I use that position a lot when fishing and I need to sit:)

For close to WOT, that sounds about righ for gas and oil consumption t. Your numbers work out to about 1.4 GPH. Not too bad for that hull and motor.

The wise seat is 27 inches wide. The original seat is somewhere near 21 inches wide. I don't know if the Wise seat would work out. It would rduce the center passageway by 6 inches and that space is already tight. I don't think they would clear the side panels either.

I agree with Reel cookin, 300 HP is the best solution for a single. Twin 150s for twins. Max rating for that hull is 350hp so twin 200s is not an option There is a lot more work to convert to twins including possible new tanks , fuel plumbing and all the actual motor rigging. I also don't know...

I suspect that that LU is low on oil:)

a good reference or two is worth a ton. Don't use any surveyor or mechanic recommended by the broker.

so that's what those long poles on the hard top are for!

Cheap is necessarily bad. If a good shade costs 10 times a cheap one but lasts 5 times as long, it may not be the better choice. The main issue is whether you need the shade to hold up when using the boat at sea and not just docked. If used only at the dock, the less expensive options might be...

The seats on the 208 are relative 'small' especially in width. If you go bigger, two things may happen: The passage between the seats will be hard to get through and secondly, the seats may not be able to fully rotate backwards. Sp whatever you do make sure you measure the required clearances...