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EFX, there's less USCG rules about plug-in connections with an outboard. But, you still have the charger in an area that could possibly see gas fumes. A plug-in connection is a loose connection and could possibly arc/spark. If there are gas fumes present, you know what comes next. Best...

I was wondering about that comment about the Seastar, too. At first I thought he added power steering fluid to the trim tabs, as well... but then I figured it was just a completely separate and unrelated comment... just to confuse us! FYI, you CAN push a tab DOWN manually by hand, even in a...

Sounds like your mechanic may have already put the primer on for you?

Could be low on fluid - sounds like you've located it, so go ahead and check the level. Check electrical connections - especially red and green (port/stbd). Reverse the hydraulic lines at the pump - that will tell you if the issue is at the hydraulic cylinder or at the pump.

Look closely at the hull from various angles - typically you can see ghosting of where the stripes where. But, does it really matter what the original was? Do what looks right to you. It won't make a bit of difference when it comes to resale. And/or... go look at any other Grady near you and...

Yeah, generally speaking, butt/crimp connections with adhesive shrink are MORE than adequate. The flex that Hookup mentions is the reason to, for the most part, stay away from soldering. "Most" people use too much solder and you get a flex/pivot point where the solder stops and that can cause...

FYI, all teak is marine grade. Teak is naturally an "outdoor" wood.

Yup - you're good. I woudn't worry about it one bit. It's very common for all of the cylinders to NOT be the same - even brand new ones can be different - even 6 different readings.

Can you post some pictures of the teak? Teak naturally turns grey and maybe that's what is happening. To keep it looking "new", you have to keep up with the maintenance on it - either oil it or varnish. Turning grey, by the way, is only a cosmetic thing. Jack... without the foul language...

Groco has excellent products and support for their stuff. Does it NEED to be replaced or just repaired? These things typically last for a long, long time. If it's totally shot - which would be really, really odd - you can most likely get a like for like replacement made by Groco. Check...

Concerning the bimini straps... another thing that can be done is to replace the rear straps with poles. That way, even with the bimini in the folded up position, it can still stay upright (kinda like a radar arch). Just a thought to throw out there for others reading through this thread. For...

The "plate" under the hardtop tubing (the "foot")... is that not solid?

FYI... Using RingFree will DRAMATICALLY cut down on the need to regularly clean the O2 sensor.

It's funny, in my experience, I've found the SS inserts (good ones, not cheap/thin ones) to hold up better than vinyl ones. It doesn't scratch as easy as vinyl... small scratches can be buffed out... if it's a larger goober, then a short (say, 2' for example) section can be cut and replaced...

Yup, easy enough job for someone with basic skills. You will need to bleed the brakes, of course. Fulton would be the first company I would look to - but I'm sure there are others.

Jack, it's still kinda hard to follow what you're saying without any punctuation - it makes it hard for us to read. However, in terms of damage - number one, why do you assume there's damage? Two, it's impossible for us to say what damage you could have since we weren't there and are currently...

Any halfway decent marine store will have parts that you can use to repair. Being in Florida, you should have plenty of places available. Railing don't "warp"... has it been damaged? It might just be that it needs the T-fitting to keep it "down". I'd work on freeing up those set screws - it...

Did you try contacting GL and A&J directly, or just look on their website? If not, it might be worthwhile to give them a call. Just know that even if you buy a pre-made one, you still need to install the snaps into the cover. Yeah, $1,700 sounds high - I would expect closer to $1,000. But...

Actually, air is still an electrolytic solution - just less of one that fresh water, which is less of one than seawater. Galvanic corrosion still happens in air - the warmer/moister the air, the faster it will happen. Just a little side point, there!

When I hear "helm" cover, I think of a small piece of canvas that covers the gauges - roughly a 4 sq/ft piece of canvas. Are you referring to a "cockpit" cover - a piece of canvas that covers the entire cockpit?