Search results

I was thinking about that, too. I suppose something like a round trim tab zinc could be used. Use the sender hole as access and drill a hole to use a through bolt. I'm just not too keen on drilling holes near huge vat of gas fumes! But, I wonder how accurate of a "test" the anode would...

I didn't pull a control cable, but I did run a new 10g wire to the helm. It actually went quite smoothly. I was actually impressed with the chase tubes - many boats don't use those. Pull the new with the old or pull the old out and leave a string - either will work. Spraying the new one with...

Guys, this thread is about month old and the OP has yet to respond. But reading his initial post, it seems he is replacing an existing twin engine setup. He didn't say anything about not being happy with his 25" shafts, so the colnclusion was to replace like for like. CD3 kinda got this off...

Since you grounded the pink wire at the sender, you know the tank is grounded. You're good. Don't cut the ground wire - if you want, add another ground wire.

I don't recall who it was,, but someone (relatively recently) went through this on a boat of about your size. Take a look back through the threads (maybe find it with a search) and you should be able to find the discussion.

Which plastic ones?

I'm guessing there's a tab on the tank somewhere else that we can't see that is being used as the ground instead of that screw. I do see a black wire in the picture.

Why is it labelled "5/5/5", which leads one to believe it's a 3-bank charger, yet there's only two positive leads coming out and only two sets of charging indicator lights? As noted, that's a pretty light duty charger - but that's a discussion for another time. At this point - it's what you...

I was actually recently looking at the TH Marine plastic one. I like their products - they've always seemed to be a good company. I may just give them a try. I would imagine that they'll last at least as long as the metal tubes. Either way, "pre-sealing" the core is the most important part -...

Are we talking about the switch that prevents the engine from starting in gear? Or the one that is used to help "release" the engaged gears when shifting back into neutral (I think Yamaha uses something like this... other manufacturers do). If it's the first one, then it sounds like you'd be...

Was the engine running that you did last year in the water? And now it is on a hose? Being in the water can muffle things - meaning, it's more pronounced when just on a hose. As was mentioned, a combination of the RPM's being too high and not shifting firmly/quickly enough will cause grinding...

Well, you've got two different sets of numbers there that you're talking about - weird. But, are you saying that after just two days of sitting it's already down to 12.5? And it's only 6 months old? Not good. Charge it up and go get it load tested.

Do you need the actual switch, just the cover or is the horn not working? Switches and covers are easy enough - whether from your local dealer or marine store, or online... but if the horn isn't working, the most likely culprit is the horn, itself - did you troubleshoot?

Looks like Suzuki is wrong, too! :) Ventilation is the introduction of air into the path of the propeller - which I'm sure is what everyone is actually talking about. The plate prevents air from being drawn in (or loss of water) to the prop when traveling at higher speeds. Cavitation is...

What could those "worms" be? It's just a little rubber hose. Literally, this is a 10 minute job. If the rubber hose should deteriorate in your hands, then you know that this was something that needed to be replaced, anyways. Unless you'd rather find out 2 hours away from shore? ;)

Yup, SOP in colder climates! ;) You're good for AT LEAST a year - in reality, a couple years - even though the packaging may say "stabilizes for up to one year". But you're totally fine. Go boating and have fun! :)

Just about any planing-style hull will hull/bow steer when trimmed too far down, so you're not alone there. While it's true that dual-props will give better bite and could allow the engine to be a bit higher, it's not magic. Definitely sounds too high. I've been on this board for a while and...

Take a picture of the hyd ram and call Bennett directly - they'll help you.

OK, that explains things better. With the key on (engine does not need to be started), remove the pink wire from the fuel sender unit at the tank - gauge should drop to E. Next, ground the pink wire and the gauge should peg F. If that doesn't happen, replace sender. If it does happen, the...

"Hovering" - what does that mean? It's starting to move, but still near full? What does "hours" of engine use mean? And how were you using the engine?