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The only ones I've ever had apart are on Sea Rays - they use, what looks like, similar fittings - but those are one piece top rails. Never had a Grady's rail apart, either.

Grady doesn't use a one piece top rail? I'm surprised by that. Are you sure the "one piece" doesn't just slide through the fitting and the allen screws are there to secure it place?

Don't "think". Figure it out. Maybe TS can send you a template/specs that you can transfer to a piece of cardboard. Or, talk directly to them - if you can provide accurate dimensions of what you have, possibly then can tell you if it will work.

Look in the owner's manual - you can download it. Then add for the motor - you can probably find those specs online, too - or just add 3' - that will be close enough. You shouldn't need anything "down to the inch" here.

Another option... A nice, fluffy wool bonnet will help since you can squeeze it under the stanchions, better. Worst case, do the part under the aft most stanchion (actually, just the actual rail) by hand. But, yes, they are thru-bolted for strength. Side point... now that you messed with the...

Another vote for the Turbo Swing. It simply bolts on by removing the nuts on the engine mount studs and then putting the nuts back on.

You're welcome!

Are the internals the same, as well? Check that out to be sure - don't judge a book by it's cover ;)

Yeah, I'm not sure any of these inexpensive ones really last any better than another. Maybe shim it to angle a little further downward? The flush-mount ones often use some type of fabric that allows sound to go through, but the ocassional light splash is suppsoedly kept out - but even those...

Is it an external mount or is it flush mounted into the hull/deck?

They are a standard size - stop by any marine store and they'll have what you want. Buy two and leave one in your tool bag on the boat. But, since you asked, it's 1/2" pipe.

I guess with a limited request, comes limited answers, right? The answer: remove screws, pull out sender.

OK, how the heck did you two understand what he was talking about? I've read it multiple times and still don't understand what he's saying.

huh?

Actually, 5200 is many times "stronger" than 4200. 4200 is still quite tenacious, but 5200 is crazy. Note what I mentioned above about the gel to glass comment. 4200 shouldn't do that.

That's a good question. I know that 3M doesn't list it under their "UV Stable" section, but have I ever actually seen it? I can't say for sure - at least not that I can remember. But then, in the number of decades I've been in this business, I've never used it (or known of anyone that has) in...

I'm doing the bang cap on my parent's 192 that they just got and I may actually end up doing that. Definitely got to use some glass to give strength to the epoxy (I still have a couple gallons laying around from a previous rebuild). They don't care much about aesthetics - I may just use a...

Oliver, just a heads up, 5200 is NOT rated by 3M to be UV stable. Plus, as Seasick mentioned, it is VERY strong. It's bond to the gelcoat is stronger than the bond between the gel and fiberglass. Truth is, there are very few places on a boat where 5200 is the appropriate sealant. It's great...

Good eye. Looking again at them, the Grady's strakes don't "stop short" of the transom and the Grady looks to have a noticeably deeper V.

A few posts below yours is a recent thread about the same thing. Rather than re-hash everything, take a read through that one.