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The fitting by the gas fill looks to be a fender hanger. Based on the location... and knowing that the fill/vent are always on the same side... and that there are no other vents nearby the fill... and that the new style of vent for fuel looks like that (the EPA emissions crap)... I'm going with...

As close to the stringers as possible. They're easy to locate and easy to take measurements or even just eyeball it to the outside of the hull. It's not an exact science - just get close - but err to the outboard side of the stringers based on strakes.

Get some penetrating fluid (PB Blaster, for example) into the cylinders - squirt a bunch in through the spark plug hole. Let it sit for a day, spray some more, let it sit. Then try spinning it. It could be locked up - but it could also still be the starter (too old/weak). If you can get it...

Did you try jumping the starter once you had it off the genny? Does it spin up then? Or, if you have it back on the genny, try jumping a GOOD 12V right from a battery - see if things spin over then. Where are you located? The colder the water, the longer it may take to make heat - and not be...

Cary, what did you do to handle the possible electrical shock issue since the boat's grounding system is negated?

Yeah, it doesn't make sense for the raw water and fresh water systems to be buddies. However, that's not to say that some previous owner didn't do something like that. At nearly 40 years old with who-knows-how-many previous owners, all bets are off!

What you're experiencing with your chartplotter is normal. GPS heading can only be determined by movement -- constantly comparing your last position to the new position. Given those slow speeds... and that the gps antenna isn't a compass... it has a tough time knowing which way the boat is...

Sounds like a plan. Once you have a bigger load in the boat, it will be beneficial that you propped it to be near the top end of the range with a light to medium load. Manufacturer's always test boats/engines with very light loads and prop them based on that. But I've always thought it's...

Wax removal is easy. Even a cheapie tool can do that. I think you'd be wasting your money by buying that tool for that job. However, Shurhold is a good company and I wouldn't doubt their DA is a solid tool - but I have never personally used it for compounding/polishing. If you don't want to...

That's a nice, easy solution to an annoying problem. Along with that... is the wiring from the fuse block to the double outlet the proper size? Don't want to risk a fire.

Is the only reason to replace it because of the damage? Use a SS or nylon fender washer to span the hole. Or find a sturdy piece of plastic floating around the house somewhere and cut it to fit... and old phone case, for example. Or rotate the housing and create new holes.

Without seeing pictures, I'm only guessing here... but most times, when there's a crack in the side, it's just in the gelcoat - meaning, not structural. But, again, that's a guess based on limited info. If you're OK with the aesthetics of it, and just want it to be structurally sound, just cut...

From what you're describing, it sounds like it shouldn't be too hard for a good glass shop to fix it. They'll be able to match up the color of the repaired gel areas - if not perfect, it will be awful close.

If it's the part I'm thinking of, it would be easily shipable. So from that standpoint, it makes it easy. Florida would definitely have shops. How bad is it - what exactly is wrong? Can you fix it? Maybe with some guidance? Post a pic.

This is a fiberglass part? There is no "aftermarket off the shelf" for this. This is only made by Grady - the same as pretty much all boat manufacturers and glass parts. You can try looking for salvage yards or ebay. Otherwise, you can possibly repair it (or have it done for you) - search on...

Thanks... I think... :) Just kidding - have a great New Year! And remember... all of the problems we experience with our boats... are GOOD problems! There are much worse problems to have in life.

Ah, gotcha... two separate thoughts. Carry on! ;)

The height of your motor won't affect your scuppers in any way. But it could be affecting your top end speed/RPM. Before you try a new prop, be sure that the engine is at the right height when on plane... take a look at the anti-ventilation plate - ideally, it should be skimming across the...

I suppose that "a while ago" rubber (w/carbon) was used and then, at some point along the way, manufacturers stopped using "rubber" and started using a different material (w/o carbon), although they/we may generally still refer to it as rubber. In the end, it would have been a combination of...