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Ask the embroidery company if they can use a printout. I did that with a Sea Ray logo on my last boat - just brought them a piece of paper with the logo and they took care of it from there. Since they didn't already have the logo it was a deemed a "new setup" and there was an extra fee for...

Also... make sure the bow eye is tucked tightly up underneath the bow roller. That also prevents the bow from bouncing - I'm always surprised at how many customer's trailers I see where it isn't snugged up.

Good point - that's a reasonable theory. Either way, it should pretty easy and quick to narrow down where the issues is with jumping. Start on the motor side of things and just work backwards - a couple minutes is usually all it takes.

Yup, Yup. Good test to do, as well (I wasn't suggesting to NOT do that... just offering a different type of test). It can check to see if the motor is crapping out/binding out. I'm wondering (outloud), though, if it really tests for a failing relay. I've never done it for that reason, which...

You mentioned "voltage drop"... are you doing an ACTUAL voltage drop test or are you just comparing the voltage on either side of the relay? Note what I said above about amps. A volt drop test is different than just comparing. Did you try jumping the relay?

I had my cushions redone for me by a local upholsterer, along with new foam (a little thicker and denser in the anticipation of sometimes sleeping onboard). I paid $600, including the filler cushion for the middle of the v-berth - which I had to make the template for since the boat didn't have...

And... just to add some more info to back up with Seasick is talking about in regards to the relay... just because you hear a relay "click", doesn't mean it is good. A relay can make an audible click, yet the contact points on the inside can be deteriorated enough so that they don't make ENOUGH...

You and me both, brother!

Just thinking outloud... maybe Grady can provide the proper paint code for the autobody paintshop to mix it up.

I would imagine they are powder coated, but it's fine to use paint on top of that. Since you're right there at a dealer, I'd ask them to start with. If your MM doesn't sell Grady, just call a local one. However, if no one chimes in with an exact answer, or there doesn't seem to be one...

Yup - you are correct in your colors. Green is down, blue is up. Think... green for grass/ground, blue for sky.

Any difference when doing it right at the engine? How about with the engine running? Do your battery switches allow you run the port engine off the stbd battery? It's pretty rare for a trim motor to go bad - not that it never happens, of course, but the more common issue is battery...

No, I'm using the diameter. In other words, the chine of the boat is roughly 34" or so off the ground. Just think about it logically... you've got roughly 8-1/2' from the chine to the top of the hardtop (or t-top... whatever you have). That means you've got less than 2' to spare. Do you...

OK, not going to make it. Even with a bunk trailer, it's not going to work. If you take what Fish gave you - 8'5"... and knowing the boat's chine will sit above the wheel fender... and knowing the tire, itself is about 30" tall... plus the fender - maybe another 4"... plus at least another 4"...

What's the height of your garage opening? T-top or hardtop? What is your distance from waterline (roughly the cockpit floor) to the highest thing (anything mounted to the top that you wouldn't be taking down)?

Something to consider with the outboard: Torqeedo electric. Roughly 30lbs, and 10lbs of that is the easily removable (just clicks in place) battery. I have an older one of these and it's fantastic as I can just throw the whole thing down below to store it with no worries of gas and oil...

Looks great - almost too shiny to use! Hindsight is 20/20, but yeah, the anchor roller should have been mounted further forward so it hung off the front more. Oh well. It really wouldn't be all that much work - especially compared to what you've already done - to just grind/sand the front...

Just wanted to point out that while it's "fun" to talk about it being a head vent, there really is no way it could be a head vent. The head, itself, would overflow before the vent does. Fuel vent. But just to reiterate, this shouldn't be happening with the newer fuel systems. Not good.

It is definitely a vent, not a drain. A drain is completely open like the one below and aft of the one in question. If it was a head vent, there would be a head pump-out fitting (deck plate) nearby... can't quite see the top of the gunwale enough, though.

It may have been made in-house... or possibly made by Teak Isle as they are a big producer of these things. It's possible that your boat had a simple, vertical piece of canvas to cover the companionway opening. And, maybe the door was an option... or maybe it was something that was introduced...