Search results

zukes have small black & white wires to the battery with a 30A fuse. You have fly by wire controls? push button start, one key, one kill switch?

Unfortunately, the rigidity of the transom comes from the bond of the glass on both sides of the wood. It doesn't matter that the wood is good. Without the bond, its going to flex. It is likely that the forward glass is the same. Eventually the wood and/or the glass will break. The only proper...

it runs EVERYTHING , all your lights, your horn, your wiper, your electronics, your Manual bilge pump switches. It feeds the "House" +12v terminal block to the fuse panel(s) and the switch panel breakers.

What do you have? 15.5 dia x17" pitch? What is max RPM? Do you mean go 4 blade or maybe go up to 15.5dia X 19"? General rule of thumb is drop 2" of pitch to switch to 4 blades (assuming same diameter) in order to stay in the max RPM range. What are you trying to fix? 4 blades generally help...

I had 3 out of 4 chrome over bronze 1-1/2" scuppers cracked inside the rim. Old is old. They don't make Marleon "scuppers" though. Only mushroom thruhulls and flush deck drains. I replaced scuppers with SS because Chrome over Bronze scuppers are crazy expensive. Grady didn't use Marelon they...

Its not just Gradys. All deep vee hulls naturally rest in the water with the fwd keel lower than the garboard drain. If you only have an aft automatic bilge pump, the water will fill the bilge to the level of that pump. When you go on plane it pumps it all out. Most V hulls over 20 ft have an...

All of the bilge spaces are connected. the water can be coming from anywhere on the boat and running forward. If you trailer the boat and don't use antifouling paint, then stainless is OK below water line. If you are painting the bottom, use bronze or marelon there, paint right over it...

You daisy chain them. If you can't open the dash panel, the newer Garmins are usually held in by screws from the front. The screws are hidden under removable plastic top and bottom edge.

why would you spend all that money and not get the 250AP with fly by wire, auto-trim, troll mode... You are changing from Yamaha to Suzuki. You can't use your old gauges and binnacle. You save nothing by staying mechanical. You still have to buy new mechanical binnacle. Makes no sense at all...

The rusty 40A red button breaker under the white plastic cover. Replace it with a Bussman 185 series or 187 series MRCB or similar other brand. They are trip-able like a switch.

Get rid of the red button breaker now before you are in the dark 100 miles off....

follow the link in my post ...scaffoldmart 8 x16 cement block.. plywood or 2x4 or 4 x4 on top all depend on what height you want... With 4x4 on top of block, you crank jacks up just enough to remove the 4x4 and then a paint roller fits

Oh...I'm sorry.....:eek: keep your chin up....maybe your luck will change...:p

You are "dry docked" You mean in a rack storage? or on a trailer? You launch & recover in the same day? So you don't really need a new barrier coat & you don't really need bottom paint IMO, save your time and money, power wash it, buy the cheapest ablative paint and "blackwash" it one thin...

Same fluid

Garmin makes the Yamaha CL7 digital gauge. It is basically a GPSMAP7400. They put that Yamaha software and J1939 port in all of the GPSMAP mfds. That means if you use J1939 your Garmin will do everything the CL7 will do(when setup correctly). You just need to plug into the Yamaha Hub with a...

Seastar was bought up by Dometic. Their website absolutely sucks. It is still possible to get to old Seastarsolutions web pages. Here is a 2017 guide http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/SL6001-26.pdf You probably have a typical single motor, single cylinder(piston thing)...

Look for one (or two) of these in your boat. YAMAHA - COMMAND LINK MULTI HUB ASSEMBLY - 6Y8-81920-01-00

The full Yamaha engine data is on J1939 not N2k What Yamaha gauge do you have? Depending on what you have you may only need Yamaha EngineBus to J1939 adapter. The Garmin has aJ1939 port and menus for Yamaha Forget about 0183

If you’re already taking things apart…. Look at the o rings and trim & tilt rods for pitting