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This is a minor point... but as long as you're attempting to do everything "best practice"... I noticed a spot on your neo/5200 where the 5200 is "bubbled" out a bit. That "could" collect a little water - especially since the neo padding is rather thin (not a whole lot of space between the neo...

Another easy option to secure the tank is a simple PVC or fiberglass L-channel secured to the stringers and just resting against the tank. About 3 or 4 of them per side (about 4" long each) will be MORE than enough. And, as you're already planning on doing - either use your neoprene in...

Really? That's an awful expensive boat to only have a 1-year warranty on some parts. Companies like Sea Ray have a 5-year warranty on everything - and then a lifetime hull and deck warranty. I'm surprised Grady doesn't have a better warranty. Probably still worth the effort to contact a...

Looking good! 5200 was never "cheap"... but it definitely isn't anymore, right! :)

Mike, it sounds like you're saying the pieces themselves are rusting/pitting... and this is NOT just rust staining on the gelcoat running down from the items? If so, you're perfectly within your rights to contact a Grady dealer. The BOAT has the warranty - not the original buyer. The supports...

The bow thruster is a high draw item (does it run off the two engine batteries or is there a separate bank when that option is selected? I honestly don't know) - but that item would only be used when the engine is running so it's sort of a moot point. LED lights draw an extremely small amount...

It's a bowrider, though. There is no "house" to speak of. It's basically the same (from this standpoint) as an 18' bowrider. Granted, it's a whole lot nicer - a LOT nicer. But the use of batteries is the same.

Oh... I'd bet there's info in your manual about this, too. If you don't have the original, you can download it on GW's site.

Within a short distance (very close to) from the where the shore power cable enters the boat will be a breaker. Like home breakers, it may not always "look" tripped. It might be caught up in the middle. So turn it completely off then back on.

To add on to what I said... adding ANY size tabs (even small ones) will show a marked improvement in hole shot, lowering planing speed and calming the bow down in a chop. So anything you do is going to be good. But as in pretty much all things boating... bigger is better :)

Don't base it on what others have used or what comes from the factory. You have the opportunity to do it "better". Measure and see what you can fit.

I agree with Seasick. The issue is not the windlass - well, more accurately, the gypsy. Unless the gypsy is just completely worn out from years of use. The issue is the rope to chain splice. It needs to be the proper size rope for THAT gypsy (probably 1/2"... check the gypsy for the...

Then this is all pretty much a non-issue. In this case two batteries is plenty. Even a few hours of listening to the radio with the engines off will be fine with just two batteries.

Aft end slightly down.

I was going to start from scratch with my response... but I'll just reiterate/add-on to some of the things that Skunk said as that is exactly the way I would go. One starting battery for each engine and then a SEPARATE bank (which can one or two batteries) for the house using deep cycle...

Good idea with the washers - creating a "drain hole", so to speak.

When you say "plenty" of electronics, what are you talking about? How long do you use your electronics with the engines off? If you're just talking about standard stuff, then that's not really all that much. Being a simple bowrider you're not going to have tons of 12V items drawing power like...

It's extremely unlikely to snap those bolts - they're too big. But penetrating fluid NEVER hurts. Why are you contemplating NOT using it?

Look like you're making good progress! Keep in mind it's still just a 22' boat - the other stuff that adds to the length doesn't matter. No, it's not underpowered at all. In fact, it should do REALLY well. The bracket will help performance, too. I have a 250HP on my 24' Offshore and it runs...

OK, if it's a trailered boat, then corrosion is less of an issue. I "think" the upper gearcase is the same between a 1 & 3... meaning, down the road you may be able to swap. But I'm not 100% sure of that. The downside of a 3 is that it's more likely to expereience corrosion in the aluminum...