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Plymouth, Mass (it's in his signature) :) Gil, these threads often go around and around and I don't think there's ever been anything new or different to add - in case you wanted to do some searching on this site for more info. Utimately, you may be happiest if you find a local upholster to do...

Oh, I didn't realize you were looking for a used one. Disregard.

There's going to be a ton of trailer stores/boat stores in Florida. Best bet is to just look around for a place near you, visit and talk, see who you get the best vibes from. You want to buy from a store that you feel comfortable going back there for service on the trailer over the years, as...

I have not, but it seems like a quick call to Total boat would be the easiest/quickest way to get an answer. But, as long as they're the same formulation, I don't see an issue? However... I think you're in a for a world of hurt trying to get it to match. You're going to waste A LOT of paint...

They're somewhat flexible because they're plastic - but, yeah, that's strange that the holes are off enough for you to take notice.

Truthfully, you're better off (my opinion, anyways) getting the plastic two-piece ones that just snap together - TH Marine. They'll last just as long and assembly/disassembly is easier. "Freshen up" the wood core and paint it a bunch of times with resin - making sure it soaks in real well.

I was waiting on some more clarification, too, as it was a little hard to follow exactly what did/was happening. Rob? But, to your question, it's possible that the time the engine was "running fine" was less than the amount of fuel in the HP VST "tank"...

Yup - that works! Anywhere where something will be touching the tank, you run the risk of corrosion setting in because water will gather, eliminating the necessary air for the aluminum to self-protect itself. Now, you have a coating so it's not nearly as important... until the coating wears...

I agree - if I was this far into it, I would paint it... I think ;) The key, of course, is all about the prep - which of course is why you're asking. On something like this, I'd be doing a couple washes with a very stiff brush and TSP and then some acetone. I would probably, for good measure...

Truthfully, I was kinda wondering what was going on. I mean, I KNOW that you know the difference between bow and stern... but I was like "What are we missing here - Seasick knows this - why is he asking?" :)

There's not a lot of info here regarding what you actually did/didn't do, but it may come down to how you disconnected the shore power - especially if you disconnected while something was still being powered.

What's the reasoning behind why you are wondering if the 13,500lb lift isn't good enough? It's already about 3,000lbs over your boat's weight. Unless you're planning ahead for your next boat?

Yes, installing flush rod holders in the fiberglass would mean you would have to route drain lines for every one of them... kind of a pain when there are better solutions. A custom rod holder bracket like pictured above would work. Or, you can get nice clamp-on rod holders that can be used on...

Only if your definition of the transom is the same as my definition of the bow ;) What I mean by bow keel angle is the "slope" from the nose of the boat towards the water. The more vertical that is = more boat "in the water". Which means it's possible for a smaller boat to actually have more...

I'm not sure what "folks say" means, but go look at the model specific info on Grady's site for definitive info on length. "Sometimes" you'll even get lucky and see the waterline length listed (WLL or something similar). But, regardless, for comparison between the two boats vs their respective...

Porter Cable 7424.

Travis, it's unclear... please clarify... It kind of sounds like you're talking about installing shore power on your boat? But I "think" that you might be saying that you're in a slip that has a shore power pedestal and you're simply using that to supply power to a regular extension cord...

Looking good! Not sure what tools you are using, but if you have more panels to do... An oscillating tool with a cutoff blade or even a scraper blade got rid of most of the old wood very quickly. I found a flapper wheel (something like a 60 grit) was the best/quickest at removing stuck-on wood.

If the cutout in the Seadek is big enough, sure. But... how are you going to get to the nuts if you thru-bolt? Will the table be in the right place if you replace an inspection port? You could always get a new piece of Seadek made to be cutout around your table base. Your intial idea is...

Lifting strakes will have more glass in them than a chine, simply due to how they are built. But I agree with others that it most likely is not structural. Rap on it real good with your knuckles and compare to other areas. I suspect you won't notice a difference in the sound. Gelcoat is...