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My guess is the boat was swamped, but didn't sink. Swamping doesn't get the media attention sunk does. After all, ratings are more important than accuracy. At least they didn't speculate a cunning shark was responsible for the gear getting wrapped-up in the props. Who wants to start a Facebook...

Glad they are well. I'm curious to see what "sinking" looks like for a boat that should not be able to sink unless overloaded with something not buoyant.

Hopefully the issues are related and the fix is as easy as unclogging a vent.

Huh. Looks like I need to look more closely at that side vent.

Hookup, Thanks for the offer. I looked at my owner's manual and I'm perplexed. What I thought was the fuel tank vent on the side of the hull is (according to the manual) the vent for the head. The perplexing part is that the manual shows the fuel tanks venting at the caps!?? How are your vents...

Stick with 4 cylinder 4 strokes, or new Merc v6's and you should be fine. That same hull was eventually offered with v6 ox66's at 470 ish lbs.

Is your prop damaged? What prop do you have now. You should have something like a 15 1/4 x 17 and get mid 40's for top end at 5500 rpm.

There is an ass for every seat, but the question is how many more or less asses will want to be in that seat. IMO this hull rolls a bit much as it is. I can't imagine what another 2-300 lbs 8-10' off the water would do (including driver weight). Member Rbarclay did the same thing you are...

In my experience the engines should be trimmed 1st to get the hull closer to level. If the bow is lifting due to impacting the chop, add some tabs to keep the hull more consistently level in 2 second increments. However, if it is too rough to move at higher speed and you can't get the stern out...

I'll recheck the manual, but I'm reasonably sure there is no Y valve. This is a Jabsco manual to electric conversion system. Same as our 248. The 248 had no Y valve. I'll need to check where this thing vents. The gas is obvious, but I'm not sure where this one comes out.

The PO of my boat claimed he never used the head. I assumed the holding tank must be empty. I've had some issues with backflow into the bowl, but I have not yet checked the joker vavle. I know the system has at least a gallon or 2 of water in it. Went to pump the tank (vacuum system) out and...

A Merc 225 4 stroke mechanical would be the ideal solution - if you can find one. A mechanical 4.2 Yamaha is rather light also, but around 80 lbs heavier than the Merc.

Take the hose off the output side of the bulb. Have a container handy to catch fuel. Start squeezing the bulb. Oddly mine pulled fuel most easily horizontally. Once air was out of the supply side, I connected the hose to the output side. Problem solved until I couldn't overcome the air pressure...

See post 13.

Sorry for the confusion. Mine is not a vacuflish. It is the manual to electric conversion. I have to look at the diagram to confirm if I replaced it.

I'll have to take a look, but I think that was part of the assembly I replaced. I hope it was anyway! If not, oh joy!

Since we are on the topic... I flush the head and all of the waste water is pumped from the bowl. A day or 2 later there is what I assume is nasty water in the bowl. I'm assuming it is black water that has somehow back flowed. Why would this happen? I didn't have this issue on the 248 with the...

I'm guessing a call is out of the question. :)

Every person (me included) that I know who has gotten a new boat is dieing to take it out for the 1st time. The urgency impairs judgement and the new owner takes it out in conditions that are too windy. The result is either a close call or damage when leaving or approaching the dock. Don't be...

My bet is on the clear fuel filter bowl. If it is anything like the f150's, it has all of the fabulous design qualities to make it leak air. My port engine did the same this year after changing the filter. To get it properly seated, I removed the assembly from the engine and compressed it with...