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That is interesting. When I bought my 1988 24 offshore, the 93 gallon tank was factory installed in the front compartment and the aux tank compartment (rear) was empty. I added a 25 gallon tank and a 25 gallon fresh water tank in that compartment since then. I noticed that the boat rides better...

The racor b32013 filter spins on the same mount as a Yamaha oem. It is cheaper to get a new filter head aftermarket and spin on the racor element. The Yamaha elements down here in fla last about 6 months and start rusting. I’ve seen racors last 2 years in the same environment before they show...

Check out promarineusa.com. They know their business and ship quick when you call them. I get my parts next day with optional ups or fed ex.

I’ve never had a problem with racor clear bottoms. The cheaper brands are junk. They do leak all the time. Just don’t tighten the pet cock tight. The Little o ring swells in gas so if you crank it hard, it swells too tight and messes up the o ring when you go to drain it next time. I have been...

Very important, has to be a standard rotation to pull with this tool.

https://www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard-by-year/2005/f225txrd/lower-casing-drive-1 #60 in the diagram has to come out.

Oh wow. Shipping could get expensive. Hope you can find one close by.

It could be a project if the carrier is salted. I have a special tool for the removal of the carrier. I made a tool before I was able to get the factory one out of a flywheel puller and a set of trailer chain hooks. left side is what the puller was and I just replaced both sides with a chain n...

Make sure you clean the housing up good after you get the seals out. Put the housing in the vise. The back of this type breaker bar handle works great for getting the seals out of the housing without damage. Don’t dig any deeper than you have to then use emery cloth to clean the salt from...

I am located in ft Myers, fl.

My boat

Did you check the o ring areas around the prop shaft carrier and driveshaft carrier for a pressure leak. The one around the driveshaft housing and the one around the prop shaft carrier likes to leak sometimes if there is no sealer on the o ring. I use 847 3m for all the o rings for insurance...

Spray soapy water (dawn n water)on all the seals and o rings during pressure test. If any leaks, it will bubble up.

I do 7 to 10 lbs both ways with all new seals. 5 if there are any used seals in the housing.

https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/anyone-add-a-2nd-bilge-pump-in-the-stern-of-their-boat.29300/page-2 Lots of info and pics on this thread. Bracket to transom style works well. No holes drilled in the bottom of the boat.

The manual calls for #6 wire if you have a wire longer than 33 ft from the battery to the machine. This includes all wire distance from the battery to the breaker, breaker to the solenoid, and solenoid to the machine. That could add up really quick with all bends and curves that the wire...

Thank you. Do you happen to know what gage wire feeds the buss bar. The installation manual states that the winlass needs #6 wire from the battery to the machine to keep the wire from overloading.

I don’t think they are available anymore. You could probably take this one apart and use one of the switches in your mount. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173702122758

Thank you seasick for the explanation. Great info. My winlass freefalls with 0 resistance. When I loosen the gypsy, it spins like the wheel on wheel of fortune. That resistance has to draw a lot of amps, especially when it is under a load.

Is your winlass wired through the main house breaker also or is it wired separate from the house circuit?