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It may be worth a try to fabricate a 1/2 in aluminum plate across the whole inside of the transom and then bolt it on the ends and at the motor to get you thru the season. If it doesn’t look strong enough for that, you may be able to grind the back wall inside the well and the bottom of the well...

I agree. That crack looks pretty serious. It needs a rebuild before you can trust that your motor will hold on.

Not sure. I did away with my wiper and went to applying rain ex. Actually works better than the wiper.

If you have a Bennett, the white electrical connection is notorious for having a bad connection at plug near the hydraulic pump. It fools a lot of people into replacing the pump and the switch. Check power on both sides of the plug when the switch is operated.

99 times out of 100, you are good with a successful pressure test. :) I have a radiator pressure tester with an adapter for the lower unit. You can make an adapter using a fitting off of a lower unit oil pump.

Any pics. Are they Bennett?

Absolutely. Anytime.

I also do 5 pounds vac for Yamaha and 10 to 12 for Omc n mercury.

I pressure test units at 5 lbs if they have any used seals in them such as prop shaft seals. If they are all new seals then we test them around 7 to 9 lbs. a good used seal has a chance of blowing out over 5 lbs. if there are any leaks, they will show up at 5.

Yes. Yamaha is 5 psi for lower. The shift seal has a habit of popping out under any more than that. That is why I glue them in with the 847. Also the seal lips are both spring up so they can’t hold as much as Omc n Merc. I spray the seals with soapy water like seasick had stated in a previous...

Omc and mercury install their prop shaft and driveshaft seals spring inside for the first seal and spring out for the second seal. Maybe that is why Omc and mercury pressure test at 12 to 15 pounds and Yamaha pressure test is 3 to 5 pounds.

The driveshaft seals should be replaced every 5 years or so on a Yamaha. At least here in fla. Lol. Check to see if the springs of the seals are broken under the water pump. Driveshaft should be spring up spring up and shift shaft is spring down. Pack the spring cavity with grease and I use 847...

A weak trim motor could be the culprit.

Oil from that hole is usually a shift shaft seal. Driveshaft seal usually dumps oil out the water intake screens. When you remove the lower unit, you will see the leak. If it is the shift shaft, you can dig it out carefully with a small flat head screw driver. Be careful not to scrape the...

E-10 is bad news! Doc is right. You may be mistaking pure ethanol for water. Nothing I own has ever seen ethanol except for my truck. Here in Florida, we are lucky enough to have non ethanol gas available at many stations all over town.

First thing is to seal the leak. Run the boat at high speed while keeping on top of emptying the racor every 60 seconds or so or until you are not getting much water anymore. Then add a k100 additive. This will help the water mix and pass through the system with no problems. That is the beSt...

The gasket there fails all the time. The beat way to fix this issue it to remove the sending unit , clean the gasket surfaces and reinstall a new gasket with a generous amount of 3m 847 sealer. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/99?loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fp%2F1900805459 Be sure to mark...

Check the sending unit gasket to be sure water is not pooling up on the top of the tank and pouring in.

Also check the fuel filter in the boat for a pinhole that may be sucking air.

Is your primer ball locking up like a restriction in the tank feed or a collapsed supply hose? When you pump the ball, does it stay collapsed or not spring back into shape quickly?