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Call me crazy, but this stuff works amazing. Lol. https://www.dollargeneral.com/las-awesome-cleaner.html

May be a lee’s. They are made in Miami.

May have to have one custom made by a canvas fabricator.

Welcome! I have a 1988 offshore, hard top, enclosed transom. I fish in the gulf 70 miles out and in the keys All year round. I have a Yamaha 250 four stroke and I love it. A little rough ride when I get caught in a 25 to 30 knot wind but the boat blasts right through it. The rougher it gets...

There should be at least 8 inches to the right or left for clearance for the prop not to cavitate when mounting a transducer. Try testing the boat with the transducer tipped up out of the water to see if that is the problem before you start drilling more holes.

I looked into coosa board and it is basically what you fabricated with the fiberglass layers. They say it is made for transoms and is Good but overkill for hatches. 1 layer of 1/2in divinicyl made my hatch rock solid.

Here is a link for your helm replacement.

It looks like you have a big t steering helm in there now. Those are great helms with lots of torque. Takes a lot of force or age to break one. You may have to do some alterations to the dash to mount a nfb. You can also order the helm by itself...

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2122921 This is the hose bib attachment for the wash down outlet. You will need a 1/2 inch thread with a 3/4 nipple fitting for the back of this.

Groco is sometimes cheaper than Perko and has the same quality. The 90 degree at the ball valve accepts a 1 inch hose for the inlet. That could help maximize your intake for the two 3/4 supply outputs out of the diverter valve. Be sure the hose from the bottom of the hull to the pump is hard...

http://www.fawcettboat.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=EC07CB898F004E069DA3EFBFA03EC23D&gclid=CjwKCAjw5Ij2BRBdEiwA0Frc9eA5dXBkh3Wp3vBQdwgttu5JpfuLXI2L0-c5yViGEnT_l9T12OLBnxoCfAEQAvD_BwE This is the diverter valve I have. It is mounted on the wall under my rear rod holders. The knob is on the...

I have one clam intake fitting with a ball valve and a full flow 90 coming in. I have a 3/4 hard wall hose going to the shuflo 60 psi pump. Then the pump feeds a diverter valve that splits 2 ways. One hose goes to the livewell and the other hose goes to the wash down garden hose fitting. I can...

I have a brass clam fitting like the one in the pic above. Be sure to get a full flow ball cock and a full flow barb for it. I used all 3/4 thread and 3/4 hose to a diverted valve for my wash down and livewell. It works perfect.

Has this always been a problem, or did it just pop up? Maybe blow thru the vent with compressed air with the full open to check the tube for kinks.

Good eye. Seasick. Cup holder could also be leaking. I’d silicone under the rim if the cup holder also.

Ge white silicone is the easiest to work with and is your best color match. The premium one with a 10 year warranty. Best price is Walmart. Won’t take much silicone if you coat the back of the frame and squeeze it in. Then bead the outside with a small bead. Spray water n dish soap generously...

Gotta be careful just drilling a hole without sealing the deck wood. Maybe add a sealed plastic tube drain fitting inside the hole. I don’t believe there is a problem putting a drain near the rear of the compartment. Not sure if you will be drilling the roof of the compartment below though.

Did they not silicone between the door frame and the fiberglass? Or do you think the water is coming from the door seal? Also make sure they silicones the bolt holes for the seat mount.

Had the same thing happen on my 88 24 offshore. I replaced mine with stainless fittings. They are actually sink drains. I used the same plastic elbow. I have a pie plate just above the drain hose under the seat compartment that I accessed the hose. I can’t remember if I had to cut the hose to...

If you have a wema in there now, the length is stamped in code on the top of the sender.