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Good video - the "marks" that he references on the prop (from cavitation) is spot on. It ends up looking like little pock marks on the prop blades - especially with a painted aluminum prop. It will start as small pock marks (maybe 1/8" diameter) where the paint is "erased". Eventually, it...

No, you did fine. The "%" part was a little confusing until you clarified - but you were just relaying information that you knew to try and help. Nothing wrong with that! Now, I'm going to continue on my mission of correct terminology, despite what some may say. Personally, I like seeking...

Interesting comment.

"Generally" speaking, the industry as a whole (at least from my 35 years in the industry) will use the terms "in/down" and "out/up". I realize that "down" isn't technically correct over the entire range of trim because after the engine is trimmed down to vertical it then starts to go up again...

Just an unwarranted side comment here about anchor rollers vs type of anchor :) I've found, over the years, that there really isn't a one-size-fits all setup. We all pretty much know that anchor style is often dictated by the sea bottom (grassy, muddy, rocky, etc) as some anchors work better...

How are you using engine trim and trim tabs? There's either an issue with the hull (growth, for example) or there is user error in the proper trimming of the boat. Our boats are not exactly the same - but awfully close. Your numbers are much worse than mine.

Leave a weep hole. Regardless of temperature, it's never a good idea to create an area that can trap water - even as small as that.

Lucky, just a little clarification on your post for "educational" sake :) The cavitation plate you're referring to is correctly referred to as an anti-ventilation plate. Cavitation is an entirely different thing. The plates primary purpose is to help prevent air from being sucked down into...

Pearl, you should have at least a basic fuel management gauge, right? Pay attention to that on a relatively calm day and that will help you dial things in... at least for those conditions. But the answer to your question is really just "it depends". There's way too many variables to focus on...

Re-read what I said above, though. Other than seeing the gap, it poses no structural risk.

Nah, nothing wrong with Merc - they're excellent engines. Michigan makes a "decent" prop, but it's not on the same level as Merc's props - or Yamaha's props, for that matter. But... first we need to know Max RPM at WOT. Although, technically, you shouldn't yet be doing strong hole shots or...

Actually, you don't even need to fill it. That's the beauty of the HDPE - it covers it up! Make the width of the HDPE just shy of the stanchion plates and that will give plenty of room to thru-bolt the HDPE. You can thru-bolt the roller to the HDPE before installing the HDPE to the pulpit...

Ah, OK. That helps. However... I think you're in for a bigger job than you might imagine. In order to fix those chips, you first have to grind away till you get to solid/good material. I can guarantee you that you'll grind further than you think. If that step isn't taken, the repair won't...

Can you explain better? "Clean up" is kind of vague... and you said that the entire pulpit is OK but you want to redesign to have the roller on top of the pulpit? I'm just not sure what exactly the issue is so it's hard to give any advice.

re-read post #2. The lube frees it up, exercise keeps it freely moving.

Yeah, no way would I pay anywhere NEAR that much for a "Grady" standpipe :) It's just a silly plastic tube. TH Marine all the way if you wanted to buy one. However, if it's just the "screen" that's bad... I bet you could find something at Home Depot that you could make work pretty easily...

Thanks for the pic. I've seen a lot (but certainly not all) of off-the-shelf trailer ladders - I don't think any are really going to work for you with that setup. Take a look at Easy Step, for example. That's probably one of the largest I've seen and it's still not big enough according to...

Kroil, PB Blaster, Silicone spray... they're all roughly the same for this job. But as I noted above, you really need to spray it inside - not on the outside. Spray some on the handle shaft area, too - but inside is more important.

Seacock handles get stiff/frozen over time from non-use. There's really only two solutions... replace or start slowly exercising it with a tool or a pipe to start to free it up. Taking off the hose and spraying some lube down there could help, too. In other words, ditch the rod for now and...

To start, post a couple pics of the trailer winch area so we can see what you have. There's different setups that could require different solutions. Various trailer manufacturers have different setups that make. Single step bolt-ons are relatively simple and available - but I suspect this...