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In the end, we all need to do what we feel is best for ourselves and our family. But if I may, I wanted to point out a couple fallacies in your logic... maybe it will save you some bucks! 1) The overhang you're talking about is absolutely, perfectly fine. I do this for a living and have...

From the perspective of "centering the hull" on the trailer, bunks are easier. You'll be fine. When you launch, back in until the back end of the boat JUST starts to BARELY float. Not so much that the stern is actually floating off the bunks - but to the point where it starts to rock a...

It sounds like this is a new boat? Why doesn't your dealer give you one? Depends somewhat on what style you have, though. Some use an external cap where you can grip the outer edge using your just your hand... although it would still have the two holes in it. For the flush caps... Like...

See post 7 and 8 ;)

Not all ramps go far enough into the water. Some concrete ramps stop and have a large drop off - and you better not drop the trailer wheels off the edge because you'll have a bear of a time getting the EMPTY trailer back up over the hump... let alone if you had the boat on there. And, some...

Or... get a new arm - one with a standard J-hook - and you can get a replacement blade at any auto parts store anywhere. Look at the tag on your motor for the manufacturer, but there's a good chance it's a standard size. Try AM Equipment.

Half a day. Could be less... could be more... depends on how efficiently you work and what kind of tools you have available (most notably, how you are going to lift the engines - as SeeVee mentioned). A couple come-a-longs can do it depending on what you have overhead... or build.

You're probably looking at something custom - so ask around - I'm sure you'll find some recommendations for other boaters nearby. Consider a ratchet strap in the hem of the cover - maybe more than one so you can tighten it from multiple locations if needed.

Definitely a good father/son project! But... starting on the mechanicals is putting the cart before the horse. If the hull/transom/deck/stringers/bulkheads aren't solid... it doesn't matter how good the mechanicals are as it's unsafe to put the boat on the water.

Easiest thing is a simple cockpit cover that attaches to the frame of the windshield. Pretty easy to picture that in your head! Google for pictures if you need to - there will be plenty. But, that said, there are different styles of covers - covering more or less of the boat. What type did...

Since it is an inboard, you won't have the typical "Grady bang cap" problem where water leaks down into the transom like you would with an outboard. However, that doesn't eliminate problems with the transom core. It can still be compromised from things that have been screwed into it. How does...

The length measurement you want is from the bow eye to the back of the transom where the hull stops - typically where the garboard drain plug is. Measure that straight line distance. Weight... take the dry weight of your boat (on GW's site) and then add the engine, batteries, gas, options...

Correct - the bolt/thread connection makes a perfect continuity. Paint it. Edit... just to add... this is assuming the contact between the bolt head and anode remains good. Hence the reason to check them on a regular basis. I "suspect" what you might be seeing there is not so much corrosion...

Those are on? Oh, I assumed they were off! :) Go look at gauge saver dot come. Fantastic guy to deal with and has honest pricing. I sent him mine and it came back looking like new.

A Merc small block typically has an RPM range of 4400-4800. I'm not sure what type of "rebuild" you have. What are you getting with each prop... and are you trimming up as high as you can go (just before ventilation)? Speed is secondary to RPM. Dial in the RPM and the speed will follow...

(Look at my signature) :) Just a spot for a porta-potti under the step-down into the cabin. Check things like... oil, drive fluid, anodes, impeller, bellows, cap/rotor/plugs/wires, belts, control box operation and cables, trim pump motor & bracket. There's no bang cap to worry about at the...

Thanks for that. They actually look pretty clear... what's wrong? Fuel is easy to hook up. You can get a plain Jane fuel gauge just about anywhere. Easy as pie hookup, too. Instructions will be with it, but you just need a ground, switched power and your sender wire.

It's unclear what you have and exactly what you want - which makes it hard to advise. Can you better describe... or better yet, post a pic? Yamaha multi-function... individual gauges, etc?

Forget what the manual says... it doesn't "say" anything :) How many tanks do you ACTUALLY have? Do you have more than one deck fill plate? But if you're saying that the level shown on the gauge acts normal from Full, down to about 1/2... then it drops all the way to E. Sounds like a level...

Hook, it looks like it is a surface mount - so that part shouldn't be a problem. But I'm kind of skeptical of the integrity of it, as well. I suppose it'll work fine for light duty - but I don't think it would take much more than a slightly heavy elbow or hand (using it as a prop to help stand...