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Those years are correct for the 256 Wahoo. There were other inboards, but they were back in the wooden hull years (60s if I'm not mistaken). They were also in the upper 20s to low 30s in length. The real old catalogs have them... :)

Do it in sections as well. Don't try to caulk the whole thing and then smooth it out.

Putting that statement into a simple mathematic expression about fun factor reveals... Suburban < Grady < Jeep :D

If you're no speed demon, you'll probably be OK. My Dad used to run a '77 204 Hatteras w/ a 115 Evinrude and I don't think he ever complained about power. I think he said it topped out at like 33 mph. Just make sure you prop the engine so it can reach it's max rated RPM at WOT.

Everything at West Marine comes at a premium price. :roll: I try never to shop there unless I can't find what I'm looking for anywhere else. Boaters World is my favorite retail shop.

What gauges do you have on there now? My '93 has the original Yamaha multi-function gauges and they have a series of horizontal bars (on the right of the display I believe) that indicate the trim level.

Where did you get that speed reading from? GPS, paddlewheel or water pressure? Hate to burst your bubble, but there's no possible way an Overnighter will run 67 mph with a 225.

Drill out slightly in order to get clean glass/wood, countersink outside edges of hole, paint inside of hole w/ unthickened epoxy (be sure to coat the entire surface of the wood and glass and do not allow to cure), fill hole w/ epoxy thickened w/ cabosil (inject with a small syringe), sand down...

I don't believe I've ever seen replacement stainless tubes. Just get some new copper ones. But before you put them in, coat the exposed wood with several applications of unthickened epoxy to seal it up.

How big of a boat are you looking at? For me, that would make a huge difference in the decision I made. If 22' or under and you have the truck to pull it easily, I would pull it back and forth. If 23' or over, paint the bottom and slip it. For me, boatel/rack storage would not be a...

My vote goes to Merc props as well. I'm running Mirage Plus wheels on my Sailfish and they perform great. Keep an eye on Ebay. I picked up mine in near new condition for like $265 (for the pair).

You guys who think that 8 year old engines are worthless and need of repower after 600 hours crack me up. :roll:

It a shame they didn't stick with the inboard power in their larger rigs. :(

You won't spell out A$$, but you drop the F-bomb in all caps???? Too funny.... Nice trailer. :)

No way would I pay $6500 for a factory T-Top. Save your money and go aftermarket. That way you can have it designed to YOUR specs. The T-Top I put on my old 204 was under $3000 and IMHO it was every bit as good as a factory one.

Soda blasting WILL NOT give you the results you are looking for. If you want to return to a clean bottom, chemical stripper (I don't really recommned that) or sanding all of the paint off is the only way.

My guess is the 13.75" diameter props won't move enough water to really make a difference. I would look for either 14 x 19 or 15 x 17.

I use 3M 4000UV on the gap between the hatch and the floor, but I put 4200 on the screw holes before I put the hatch down, I fill the holes in the hatch cover w/ 4200 after I lay it down and I put a dab of 4200 just below the head of each screw before I put it in.

My vote goes to the F250. Bear in mind I have no personal experience w/ either, but everything I have read/heard says that the F225 is a weak motor HP-wise and will probably have to work a lot harder than the F250 to maintain the same speeds. If fuel economy is your primary concern, I'd look...

Somewhat true. Grady's Sea V2 hull is a compromise between a true deep V and a modified V. You have a sharp entry to cut the chop and a flatter (usually 20 degree) stern to help stability. The idea was to get the best of both worlds and it works reasonably well. My 25' Sailfish rides much...