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No, you can do fine with a good anchor roller. Same hull.

Check your voltage at the outlet.

Air lock at the impeller. Run the boat with sea cock open, or for freshwater, slowly back fill from one of the outlets. Showerhead is probably easiest.

At the very least, I would replace those pop outs with screw in pie plates.

Did you sand the glass smooth for the 'ducer, or just fill in the dimples? That splash well looks tough to work in. I has 2 round pop outs in a Tournament 22, but the gate folded down flat on the deck, and I didn't have the rail around the top. Those add a foot or more of reach needed, and look...

Are those four strokes? I would be surprised if command link gauges relied on a pitot tube for input. When I put a 2000 Yamaha four stroke on my Parker, the wiring harness had a plug available for engine data, including fuel flow. Just needed a cable from that plug to my networked GPS. Even more...

https://gaugesaver.com/ BTW, someone just posted Command Link gauges for sale here.

Did you try backflushing, or blowing out the PVC tube, where it empties into the aft bilge?

I would be straining my used oil, and saving each collection of shavings separately, for a possible discussion with Suzuki down the road.

I know this question has been asked before, but I searched and could not find a thread with much input. In particular, I am looking for info for this bracket, and a 225hp OX66. I can see that the hole above and below my current set up has been used at sometime in the past, so maybe this...

Sounds like the cuddy drain is just a hole in the deck. I would put the access on the same side of the bulkhead that the water is trapped on.

One of Grady’s infamous design features/flaws was pop out inspection ports in the splash well, straight into the bilge. Do you have those?

What does "lost" mean? If factory fittings got eaten up this quickly, and the boat is slipped, I would be checking for excessive current leakage around the dock.

No

I have considered subscribing, but never actually downloaded. Is annual renewal necessary to keep the app active, or just to get the updates?

KY, probably been covered, what is mounted to the five screws on either side of your live well rod holders?

There are two kinds of kill switch wiring. One makes the connection, and the other breaks the connection, to activate the switch. Maybe that is why some will crank, and some will not, if it is activated. I have only had the former.

If the kill switch is removed, that engine will crank but not fire. That’s why so many people run the battery down before they remember to check the Killswitch.

I would use PVC trim board, from Lowes or Home Depot, if they are thick enough not to flex, over the span between attachment points. You might even find wood grain PVC, if you want to be original. If your boat is like mine, all colors are aged, and original white would be a mismatch.

For securing those snaps in the aluminum hard top frame, I would use a regular snap stud, without the screw on it, and pop rivet it into the frame with an aluminum rivet. Very easy to remove if the need arises.