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Many discussions here. Do a search for cockpit shade.

Anything below 12 V is considered dead, or flat, and probably won’t start your engine. But, most likely will take a charge, unless you are Rip van Winkle, and ran it down into the low single digits.

As far as the punch date for your battery, retailers used to punch out the purchase date, and warranty the battery from that day. I think most batteries now just have a date of manufacture, and either that, or the date on your receipt, is the beginning warranty date. If buying off the shelf...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/182728925972?hash=item2a8b7e2314:g:L6wAAOSwOixc9qPf You can send the whole unit to Fla., for a complete rebuild. Several companies do this.

Weird that it doesn't have the usual "Meets TCW3 Standards" on the label.

We are not sure yet that he is talking about snaps, although likely. If I could get to the backside of anything using a screw stud, I would say switch to a machine screw, a washer, and a Nylok nut.

I think that if you have a GW, with a transom live well, you get used to removing it for routine chores, live well pump, bilge pump, through hull maintenance, etc.. If your insulation is brittle, or coming off, you might try spraying with something like Flex Seal.

What kind of fasteners are the screws pulling out of? Can you get to the back side of any of them?

When the oil in the main gets critically low, should also get an alarm, and the engine should go into limp mode. My previous boat had that problem, until I removed the remote tank, and flushed it out with solvent. At that time, I also moved the little filter to the middle of the oil line, in the...

I am about to make one like that for my 228, but I may change the pattern first, to cover the glass. Also will have a zipper up the middle.

This thread reminds me how seldom I look at the details on those gauges. Also reminds me how much more convenient it is to have 4 quarts, instead of a gallon jug, when you try to refill either tank in a choppy ocean.

Halfhitch is right, should have a nylon sleeve in there. At least you guys still have the knob to turn.

"Personally, as a retired marine biologist, that seacock has never and will never be used to pump sewage overboard from my boat, even where legally allowed - in this country." Okay, Rob. Let's say that you are having a day on the beach with the family, riding the waves, and swimming neck deep...

How long ago was the service done?

IIRC, the float switch on the main/engine tank only demands oil from the remote/boat tank. The float switch in the remote tank is read by the gauges. I think the wiring harness has some plug in connections. Make sure they are clean, and that you have good grounds.

Can you see or feel for screws from the backside? That would be the most likely way. Is that a live well?

Can you not see any of the plumbing? If you have a pumpout, you will have an overboard discharge switch on the dash, and a macerator pump, to a seacock through hull. . Dockside pump out is by suction from the dockside equipment.

Also very helpful to have your location in your profile, you are most likely going to have a local pick up for this item.

Raising the front of the trailer shifted more weight to the rear axle, which helped your distribution, and increased your effective wheelbase. Beautiful boat!